Abbeye Notre-Dame de Sénanque (Provence)

Sénanque Abbeye by Luis Ascenso, https://www.flickr.com/photos/107521854@N05/22505170428

Pleasant Surprises in Provence

Are we in Heaven? The Sunday Mass at Sénanque Abbeye felt like it. This was just one of the pleasant surprises in our weekend in Provence.  

We decided to visit Provence after completing the Camino de Santiago. Driving from Oviedo, Spain to Lourdes to Turin brought us through this famous region of France, and once the phrase “weekend in Provence” was uttered, the plan was locked in. 

Our plan was to take a relaxing weekend of rest in a Provence farmhouse, and it turned into everything we expected and more. 

Warm Welcome

The drive from Lourdes was pretty epic. Lunch in Toulouse, a rest stop at Avignon, and a quick pass through Marseille, had us rolling into the Mas de Karlotte in the late afternoon on Saturday. We were warmly welcomed by our hostess and invited to join their family and friends for dinner. 

Dinner was awesome. So awesome that we never got around to taking photos. Pizza, in a homemade brick oven, was on the menu. Even though very little English was spoken, I enjoyed listening to Laura converse in French and laughed along with everyone.  Our hosts told Laura about the Sénanque Abbeye during dinner. 

Another warm welcome, for me, someone who loves fly fishing, came the next day at lunch. We were sitting next to this clear flowing river, channeled through town, and a Grayling was feeding on mayflies. 

Frogs.
Steak.
Grilled Fish.

Laura's Log

En route to Provence
…Leaving Avignon meant a hop of only 20 minutes to our weekend home.  Poppies dotting the famed countryside. John reminded me of how they were and still are used on Remembrance/Decoration Day after the war — because of their prevalence in Europe I think.
Warm Welcome, Indeed!
Arrived at our destination outside the village of Pernes-Les-Fontaines around 5:30 in the evening.  Kirsten, our fantastic host, was waving us down as we approached up the long bumpy drive. There are two turn-ins off the dirt road and theirs is barely marked — on a tiny board attached to a utility pole and facing the opposite direction.  Mr. Wonderful saw it, no problem. 
 
Such a gracious welcome from German Kirsten and her French husband Nicolas!  They said they were having neighbors over that night and did we want to join them for pizza (made in Nicolas’ hand-crafted outdoor oven)?  We did.  
Driving up to a springtime-in-Provence dream.
Provençal poppies.
Random Beauty
The place itself?  Wow!!  So lovely. Like a picture from a magazine. Ramshackle seemingly random beauty everywhere you look.  So many touches of our host — cabbage roses, fairy lights, fountains. Massive plane trees. Our apartment has everything. Appointed to the nines yet understated in that especially French way… 
 
Popped into town to lay in some supplies before the stores closed at 7:30 pm.
Provençal produce 1.
Provençal produce 2.
Cozy French style.
Recommendation
Came back “home” to a Martha Stewart-worthy table set with lanterns and flowers all along.  It was their kitchen table brought outside.  And another table on the end as well.  Eleven of us — 7 adults and 4 children.  A married couple Jean and Carole, their granddaughters, and another lovely lady, Nadine (Jean’s sister).  It was Jean who recommended we go to L’Abbeye Sénanque.  He was so enthusiastic — “il date du 12ème siècle” (it is from 12th century)!   We knew nothing whatsoever of this jewel.  Nicolas looked up the Mass time for us.  There was our plan for Sunday!  
To the Abbey!
Little breakfast (petit “petit dejeuner”) outside on our sweet patio. Then headed to Mass at L’Abbeye Sénanque. Into the craggy Pyrenees mountains.  Hairpin turn roads!  Crazy bikers, motorcycles, campers…   At one point, a lanky man was standing in the middle of the road vigorously twirling a tiny French flag.  Waving us down!  Turns out he was shilling nougat of all things, ostensibly to raise money for children’s cycling.  It was a death-defying enterprise!  
 
Once there, it took a bit of adventuring all about the abbey complex to find the Mass as we did not know it was in the chapel, not the main church.  (Nor did we know that one cannot actually gain church access from the outside; only from the inside, for the monks!)  There were about 100 people there!  Crowded in.  The liturgy was outstandingly beautiful, with a sung Gospel, sublime music gently plucked out on an ancient stringed instrument (a psaltery) by a serious and gifted monk, and a veteran celebrant priest (Frère Jean) who looked like God himself.  
Springtime at the abbey that is known as "one of the most pure examples of the primitive Cistercian architecture" according to the abbey website.
The tiny chapel with the ancient psaltery instrument on right in front of the large candle. And the monk in the back!
The heavenly one-winged psaltery.
Ora et Labora
The monastery has had a tumultuous history and for nearly 300 years (at different times) it was not even in the possession of monks.  Now, however, it is a designated historic property and safely in their care. 
Following St. Benedict, these Cistercian monks practice “Ora et Labora” or “Pray and Work“.   The main thing they do to survive financially, aside from healthy onsite gift shop sales and monastery tours and retreats, is keep bees and grow olives and lavender (!) on the grounds all around the abbey.
Oh, to see the rows of lavender, a profusion of fluffy soft purple — magnificent.  This time of year (spring) we saw just the waving of shimmery green shafts.  Also beautiful.  What a morning!  
Trying to get in for Mass, we notice the red "Forbidden to the Public" sign!
Reminders to be respectful of this place of prayer through behavior and dress.
Venice of Provence
Back to our town of Pernes-les-Fountaines in search of lunch. Went into historic walled part.  Nothing much open.  Artist colony — not working on Sunday.  (A good thing.)  Quick drink at a working class bar across from parish church.  Only males drinking.  Still no one open for lunch…  Decided to hit the road for Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, an enchanting destination I had read about, and we now learned is called the “Venice of Provence”.  It is known for antique markets and did not disappoint!  Yet with the 85-degree heat, it was time to get in the shade by the river for a proper lunch.  So many sweet options.  Went across a little bridge and chose La Passerelle, which means the gateway, situated right on the River Sorgue.  And so it was the door to a typical French lunch, including John’s “pot of frogs” appetizer.  
Entrance to the walled town of Pernes-les-Fountaines.
Crucifix and palms on a home in Pernes-les-Fountaines.
Pernes-les-Fountaines church. Video above is of doves in niches in the wall surrounding the village.
Grayling fish were on the move.

Jumping Fish

John enjoyed watching the Grayling fish swimming up close and saw one or two catch a newly hatched Mayfly!  On returning to the car, we even spied two fly fishermen in waders…

At "La Passerelle" restaurant in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Note the Impressionistic-looking water. Video above is a river waterwheel.
The Remains of the Day
Back to our nest.  A long nap, a dip in the pool and some afternoon sun. (It’s light until after 9 pm.)  Made stir-fry from lunch leftovers for an evening snack.  Nice to have an awesome kitchen here…  Thoroughly enjoying this time. Thanks be to God. 
Perfectly appointed kitchen.
Patio with plane tree.
Chers moines, Merci du fond du cœur de nous avoir permis de célébrer la Messe avec vous !