Camino Portuguese, Day 13: Arcade to Pontevedra

Arcade to Pontevedra.

Bridge over Untroubled Waters

Bridge in Arcade
Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio by PSdeG.

Our first challenge of the morning was to find the Camino again. It wasn’t that hard, especially with that large yellow arrow pointing the way.  

The next challenge was crossing the Ponte Sampaio Bridge, built in in the 10th century (900s). The bridge is still solid enough, but not wide enough for both people and cars.  Only 1 car at a time was allowed on the bridge, and we hugged the edge when they were going by. 

Crossing the Ponte Sampaio Bridge.

Through this whole section of Galicia, we were walking over many Roman bridges, leaving us to ponder how, exactly, they built those bridges.  If you find early engineering fascinating, you’ll love the video which shows how an early bridge was constructed (this is St. Charles bridge in Prague). You can see how the techniques must have been the same. 

Getting Closer to Santiago

We are within 80 km. of completing the Camino now, and we are seeing more signs that its approaching. Torte de Santiago is now always on the menu and available in the shops. 

I’m also trying to manage the number of stamps so our Credencial is filled, with just room for the last stamp when we arrive in Santiago.

On the Trail.
Torte de Santiago
Sure sign we are getting closer.

Looking for Signs

When you spend a lot of time walking, your mind starts to wander. One of the parallels that came to mind was the yellow arrows, our directional signals for the Camino, and life in general. 

On the Camino, when you come to an intersection, you look for a sign on where to go next. Sometimes, the arrow would be obvious, sometimes we would have to search. 

As you are walking, you see many signs and feel comforted that you are on the right track.  One time, we hadn’t seen an arrow in some time and that was the signal that we had strayed from the path. 

Santiago is that way.

The life metaphor is pretty clear. We should be open to seeing or listening to the signs to provide guidance on what direction we are taking in life.  Important life decisions like taking that job, going to college, or marrying that woman, the signs are often there. We just need to look or listen for the message. 

Likewise, even if we don’t have an important pending decision, having a signal to confirm that we are on the right track gives some comfort. 

We are on the right track.
This is the way.

We Received a Sign

One evening, a year ago, we were walking the beach before a late dinner.  We sat down and toasted the setting sun.  That was when John popped the question to Laura.  His plan had been to propose later, over dessert on one knee, but he was inspired to do it right then and there.  She said yes, and there was much joy, excitement and all-encompassing peace.  

After a friendly stranger took our engagement picture, we began walking back and something in the sand caught John’s eye.  It was a wooden rosary in perfect condition.  We started asking folks around if they had lost a rosary.  Soon it became clear that it was meant for us to find, a confirmation of our love and commitment to one another.   
Rosary.

Laura's Log

-Had a sunny day again! 

-Lots of UP — from zero to 477 feet.  And some down.  

-Historic Ponte Sampaio (bridge) at start.  Walked over this ancient Roman bridge on via Romana and by a war memorial. 

-Huge construction project at one point.  Enjoyable bucolic time along a brook. Large smooth stone paths, uneven rock slabs, dirt/sand/pebble trails and everything in between. That’s the Camino. 

-Saw a metal fence with crosses made of small sticks woven together inserted all along it.  Much forest.  Surrounded by streams. We are going on complementario way, bypassing more citified areas. 

Ponte Sampaio Bridge in morning light.
Translation from the Galician: A route from Braga to Lugo through the ancient road.
Adorning a house near bridge.
War of Independence; memorial plaque on bridge to heroes of Battle of Ponte Sampaio.
Path along fence of crosses.
Improvised crosses of twigs entwined in fence.
Complimentary colors.

-Came upon a couple, wife in old-timey Camino costume — cape and floppy hat with shell on it. They have set up a place for breakfast snacks — right in the middle of the woods! Simply adorable. Hay bales for seats, flowers and condiments on the low pallet ‘tables’.  Coffee, cokes, snacks and lots of greetings, photos and pilgrim smiles.  So glad we hadn’t eaten yet!

Unexpected and adorable forest breakfast nook.
Trusty Camino marker; rocky way awaits.
Mr. Wonderful with his Gandalf staff.

-Passed by more “singing frogs”.  Fun to observe their throaty efforts and appreciate how these little powerhouses fill the air with chirpy music. 

-Saw Chapel of Santa Maria.  Very simple. 

-A waterfall and wisteria were also on the Way.

Rustic chapel of St. Mary; note chandelier.
Simple signage.
Another bread box!
Wall of wisteria.

-Drink outside at our hotel’s cafe (La Bodeguita) at Virgen del Camino Hotel because there’s a line to check in.  Relaxed.  John got snacks at mercado.  Walked around.  Lots of Italian places in this town, and we decided to go for that cuisine at Il Piccolo.  It wasn’t open until 8 PM! Ordered the buffala cheese, tomato and avocado caprese-type salad and the pizza with smoked salmon and cream!  Also, Prosecco and tiramisu.  Delicioso!  Then the waiter brought us limoncello!  Met fellow diners Mark and David from North Carolina.  First Camino for them also. 

Our hotel bar.
Italian restaurant we chose, among several.
Enjoying complimentary limoncello after dinner.
Our hotel.

-Now we are in our hotel in Pontevedra resting after 9.5 total miles today (not just point a to b, but all walking included to hotel, etc.).  The nature-focused complimentario way is officially marked and most pilgrims seem to take it. Camino getting more and more busy now.  Nice folks on the Way from Canada, France, and Mexico.  Deo gratias!

Serene scene.

Prayer Requests

Do you have a prayer request? Please let us know and we will pray for you on our next pilgrimage.

Rosary photo by Muchengirl

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