Camino Portuguese, Day 15: Caldas de Reis to Padrón

Caldas de Reis to Padrón.

They were Just Showing Off

On the other side of the church was a van with the Spanish Civil Guard. The van was strategically placed to intercept pilgrims on the Camino. We approached, wondering if they were checking passports. Actually, they were stamping Credentials. The officer explained their mission was to patrol the Camino and protect the pilgrims.  

Later, we were passed by several  groups of Spanish soldiers on a training run. They were running at a good pace, probably doing 8-minute miles. 

The training officer definitely had a good sense to have the soldiers run along the Camino. I wonder if they ran all the way to Santiago that day?  

Guardia Civil van.
Spanish Army Training.

The Tail of Two Dogs

As we approached town for lunch, a beautiful golden retriever spotted us coming up the hill. His tail started wagging right away and gave us the best welcome of the entire Camino. 

A bit later, a sign proclaimed Perro Peligroso, and it depicted a Rottweiler. 

Belly laughs ensued when the little guy shown below (Chihuahua) walked under the gate and gave us a friendly lick. 

Waggy welcome.
"Dangerous dog" sign at top....
...this sweet little guy was the dog!

Stay on the Yellow Arrow Path

In The Hobbit, Gandalf tells Bilbo and company to not stray from the path through Mirkwood forest.  I wish we followed that advice on this day. 

As we approached Padrón, I did a Google map search for our hotel, the Chef Rivera.  The Google route was more direct than the Camino path. Hot and tired, we strayed from the Camino and went the “shorter” route. That happened to be along N-550, a major Spanish motorway. 

I thought I killed us when we negotiated a cloverleaf on foot.  Trucks coming off one highway, at highway speeds, onto the road we were trying to cross. 

Never again will I stray from the Camino. 

To the right.
To the left.

To Pulpo or not to Pulpo

This was a relatively long walk, we were hot and a bit frustrated from the final mile getting to the hotel.  We wanted to eat and call it an early night. But, we were in Spain. The restaurants were not open yet. 

We walked into town and saw one of the few open places was the Pulperia Rial.  This would have been the third time in four days for pulpo. We poked our heads in, the staff was friendly and sangria delicious. So, we made it another pulpo night. 

Pulperia Rial.
Pulpo and "tetilla". And sangria.

Laura's Log

-Great day for the Camino!  Walked 13.8 miles total.  John went out to investigate the weather, possible rain was forecast, and get us breakfast.  As noted yesterday, our room’s only window has a view of the laundry room so we can’t see out! Cool again, light rain overnight, and then we were off in clear weather.  (St. Thomas à Becket church below.)

Close up of window of Iglesia de Santo Tomas Becket.
Blossoming balconies.
Iglesia de Santo Tomas Becket.
Old World charm.
Meadow in bloom.
Horses with vineyard backdrop.

-Many forests with tall trees and fields with every crop and animal imaginable.  Plenty of grapevines, as ever.  

Perfect pose.

-Lots of folks on the path today. We enjoyed all the exchanging of greetings and also when we had our solitude back (maybe the latter a little more).  Being extra careful on the rocky roadways as we’re in the homestretch now!!!  We may be in Santiago Saturday.

(St. Clement church and Our Lady of Mount Carmel tile below.)

Iglesia de San Clemente de César, side view.
Iglesia de San Clemente de César, front view.
Niche on church facade.
Iglesia de San Clemente de César, bell tower.
Triune Cruceiros.
Solidarity with Ukraine.
Death notices like this with a request for prayers and Funerall Mass time were commonly posted outside churches. Often they included a photo of the deceased.
Cow with a crown.
Silhouette atop scallop.
Camino symbol and Fatima tile.
Our Lady of Mount Carmel.
Shady vines.

-Super lunch at Buen Camino on a hilltop across from San Miguel church in the village of Valga. They actually had the Sunday Mass time posted on a board. Our heroes!!!  Each church more interesting than the last, although most locked up when we pass by.

Mass information.
Buen Camino restaurant is up the stairs.
Precious pup.
San Miguel de Valga Church.
Cruceiro in yard.
Window on a stairwell.
Cobbled path. The stone walkways surprised us throughout the Camino.
Church terrace.
Wisteria frame.

-Many pups and a few cats on the way today. Fun. Got a bit tired at the end which was over six hours total walking.  Then we had to get to our hotel via highways.  Grateful we made it in one piece though we were/are super cautious and waited for big gaps to run across the road and over bridges. Guardian angels, thank you. 

(San Lazaro church below.)

City pretty.
San Lazaro churchyard.
Church cat.
Elegant San Lazaro feline.

-9:17 pm — sun still out in Spain!  Looking forward to exploring our new town of Padrón tomorrow before heading out.  (Too tired tonight.)  Our beloved St. James began his preaching here!!!  Deo gratias!

Statue with pilgrims' gifts.