Camino Portuguese, Day 17: O Milladoiro to Santiago de Compostela

Short Day for Final Day

Each step felt lighter today. We were walking with joy in our steps. Today felt like a graduation day, where we were anticipating the big event on our way to Santiago.

The conversations with other pilgrims were so happy, we were congratulating each other even before we actually completed the journey.

Day Drinking at the Caiman Bar

About 9 am, we arrived at the Monastery and saw the Bar Caiman on the plaza. Perfect time for a snack and café.

The bar had about 10 patrons already, enjoying their cervezas. Nice of them to celebrate for us.

Nice Surprise for Penultimate Stamp

After breakfast, we walked across the plaza to see the Monastery of San Martin Pinario, where Laura took some fantastic photos.

After our visit, a young man grabbed me to ask if we wanted a stamp. Of course. The surprise, he took me into the sacristy where Father showed him how to stamp a Credential. The stamp was stored in an ornate box, unlocked with a medieval looking key.

Another Camino memory.

As Dúas Marías

These two lovely ladies welcomed us to the outskirts of Santiago. They are As dúas Marías, (The Two Marys) two legendary women who walked about town every day at two pm.

Known for dressing well, the sculpture reflects their colorful wardrobe, and is occasionally painted in different colors.

We thought they would have enjoyed Laura’s pink socks.

Sorry Sir, Let me get out of your Picture

Walking through Santiago, we started to see more and more tourists. One gentleman was taking a picture, and we were in his frame. I told him that I’d get out of his frame, but he said that I was his subject. Who would want a photo of me?

I realized that we were pilgrims just arriving, and part of the story of Santiago. That was a totally different feeling.

Gravity Assist

One surprising thing changed once we arrived into Santiago, the directional arrows seemed to disappear. Having spent two weeks focused on where is the next yellow arrow, the lack of arrows was very noticeable.

However, we never felt like we didn’t know how to get there. It felt like gravity was pulling us to the Cathedral.

The noise of a tourist town soon invaded our ears, along with hawkers asking us to shop or eat or try their perfume.

But that feeling faded quickly as we turned a corner and realized we were there. We made it to the Cathedral de Santiago and Plaza Del Obradoiro. Our hearts lifted in joy and we both became a bit emotional. What a feeling.

Plaza Del Obradoiro

Laura's Log

-As is our wont, took the longer way from our last town of O Milladoiro (also called just Milladoiro) to Santiago. Worked out great. Made our way to the outskirts, overlooking the city, the famed cathedral in the far distance. Thrilling to see. We went by a a marvelous building originating in 912 AD — the Benedictine Monastery of San Martin Pinario. It is the second largest monastery in all of Spain and the second largest religious edifice in Santiago, following the city’s namesake Cathedral. (There were churros involved for breakfast at a working-class bar. We eagerly set off sans breakfast today.) Peeked into the cemetery abutting the monastery, and a gentleman from the church there asked if we wanted a stamp for our Credencial. We did! John got to go into the sacristy for that. The priest was instructing the man how to do the stamp.

-Very close at this point, very few yellow arrows on city streets, and we’re very eagerly on the lookout for the elusive Cathedral spires… It seemed like forever before we got our first glimpse. (Paused to take in the baroque beauty of Capilla del Pilar (Pilar Chapel), near a plentifully-treed park with a gazebo and filigreed benches.)

-Both of us teared up for a moment on arrival to the grand Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela square… it’s overwhelming. Atmosphere on the impressive Plaza del Obradoiro (Workshop Square, named after all the Cathedral craftsmen) was a little subdued. Travelers of all kinds, not just pilgrims of our ilk, wandering about, looking up at the grandeur all around, sobbing from joy and exhaustion, exclaiming, embracing comrades from the Way, taking pictures, staring at the enormity of it all, and the whole time drinking in the sounds of the hardworking bagpiper situated in a breezy archway between stairwells adjoining the plaza.

-Our fantastic ultra-splurge hotel, Parador de Santiago – Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, is 500 years old and right on the plaza facing the Cathedral! (Thank you, tax refund!) The oldest hotel in the world (!), this majestic structure used to be a hospital for pilgrims and still welcomes them today. We joyfully let the history, hospitality, and splendor of this resting point at the end of the Way envelope our weary selves.

-Tried to go to the Noon Pilgrim Mass, however it was a bit of a circus atmosphere inside — people seated on the floor, noisy, touristy, and so on — so we are going to attend the 7:30 am tomorrow. Did get to walk through the HOLY DOOR of the Cathedral! (See John’s description above.) The Holy Year of 2021 was extended to include 2022 due to corona virus, so it is a special and blessed thing to have the opportunity do. We will say/pray everyone’s prayer intentions out loud at Santiago Cathedral. Grace à Dieu!!!!

-Now we are relaxing at a restaurant, Cervantes, a bit away from the main square, but close enough to cheer on groups and solo pilgrims coming to the end of their journey!!! It’s awesome and getting quite lively!!! Chatted with friendly French couple seated next to us.