Camino Portuguese, Day 2: Matosinhos to Vila do Conde

Leaving Matosinhos

The route to Vila do Conde took us back past the Matosinhos Mercado, bringing back memories of that excellent meal from the day before. After passing the Mercado we had to cross the drawbridge, Ponte novel de Leca, which was a 3-story climb. The bridge had an elevator for pedestrians to ride up but we thought taking it wouldn’t be in keeping with the spirit of the Camino. The bridge crosses the Rio Leca in the dredged-out section of the river, which serves as a port.

Once in Leca da Palmeira, we took a left to find the coast again.

On the Boardwalk to Vila do Conde

The Camino Portuguese seems to have 2 choices of walking surface, cobblestones or boardwalk. For this day, we chose the boardwalk, which was much more pleasant than the sidewalk, and more efficient than the sand. The route was mostly boardwalk all the way to Vila do Conde.

Guardian Angels

Azulejos, the tiles you see in Portugal, are one of the more amazing aspects of walking the Camino Portuguese. Each day, we saw dozens ranging from the classic blue and white patterned tiles decorating a building’s exterior to color art tiles that depict a scene or religious symbology.

Once, we walked by a house across from the beach with a huge panel of painted tiles depicting a guardian angel protecting 2 children crossing a river on a perilous bridge. That image (shown nearby) spurred a conversation about the nature of guardian angels and several examples in our lives where we were sure that our angels were looking out after us.

The azulejos that show religious scenes or symbols really help to reinforce the spiritual nature of our Camino and help us to become pilgrims rather than tourists.

Later in the day, as we approached Vila do Conde, our guardian angels helped us. See Laura’s log for the details of our escape.

Saint Pelayo

In the year 925, a 13-year-old boy was tortured to death for refusing to renounce his Christianity. That boy was St. Pelagius of Cordova. (his name is also spelled Pelayo and Paio in different languages) His uncle was the bishop in Porto. After his death, his remains were scattered, some on the northern Portuguese coast, possibly in an effort to provoke his uncle. Later, in 1632, the Portuguese citizens built a chapel to honor St. Pelagius (they call him S. Paio)

Ensalada de Atum

Exhausted and hot, we plopped down at a table at a café on the beach. The place was packed and only one server working that day, he seemed to be the owner. He had a knack for not looking at us, or acknowledging our presence until it was our turn to be served. The table behind Laura had a local family out for a day at the beach, with their lovely golden retriever. The table behind me had four guys hammering back the Super Bocks and generally being pretty needy.

It was a Friday, so we weren’t eating meat that day. I ordered ensalada de atum, or tuna salad. I was expecting something like I would get in California, a seared Ahi tuna filet on a bed of mixed greens with a fancy vinaigrette dressing. What I received was very simple, just iceberg lettuce, half a can of tuna, and some olives, all dressed with olive oil. I was starving from walking for 5 hours, so I ate every bit and loved it. We loved the simplicity of this meal, it’s packed with nutrients, and flavor, and is light in body. Since then, this meal has become one of our favorites, we make it at home often.

Pulpo

Speaking of seafood, shortly after lunch we encountered a fisherman who was about to clean his catch. He was spearfishing just off the coast and had a variety of fin fish and a couple of octopi. Later, we learned about the delicacy called Pulpo a la Gallega, a classic in Galicia. According to the fisherman, the octopus fight pretty hard, with their 8 arms and ability to grab the fishing line. He was very happy with his catch.

Monastery of Santa Clara

It was decided to close the monastery (or convent — the terms are often used interchangeably) of Santa Clara in 1834, but it remained open until the last sister passed away in 1893. In 1626, construction began on the aqueduct that supplied fresh water to the convent. That aqueduct traveled 2.5 miles and had 999 arches.

Construction is happening again at the monastery. It is being converted into a 5-star hotel by the Lince Group and is expected to open this year. Next time on the Camino, perhaps we will stay at the convent.

Laura’s Log

-Walked toward Vila do Conde on a well-kept wooden boardwalk along the Atlantic Coast!  Rocky beach with the constant powerful rhythmic drumming of white-caps connecting with the shore. Historic sites around each bend.

-At times reminiscent of Monterey (where I lived for two years) with flora of brightly-colored low growing blooms, super-vivid purples, magentas, oranges, and pinks. At other times, reminds me of Ireland/UK with thriving bracken, ramshackle wooden stairs growing out of embankments, and even a charming small stone church from 1623!

-Lunch seaside with an adorable gigantic golden retriever at a crazy-busy “mom ‘n’ pop” place.  I even had a beer. Learned a lesson (again!) about judging based on appearances. Will blog about this and many of the other lessons of the Camino.

-Turned in from the coast and bid adieu to the ocean for a bit.

-Walking on road now (not on the walking path) at the turnoff and had a near miss when a car on the dirt road took the turn wide and right into our space at the very edge of the barely existent berm. We leapt out of the way! Thank you God and guardian angels!

-Also saw many sites along the way, such as the sight of Nordic runes, burial sites, and the like, all with historical markers.  One Camino marker was my favorite.

-Even saw two scuba fisherman who had caught several fish and a few octopi –– we stopped to ooh and ahh and chat. One explained the tricky art of octopus catching.  You wrap it around a hook and then “shoot” it.  All the while it suctions onto your arms.  Wished him a hearty “parabens” (congratulations!), one of the few Portuguese words recalled at the appropriate moment.

-Spied upright metal heart of flowers with Portuguese and Ukrainian flags set over a bench in support of Ukraine in war with Russia.

-Arrived at Hotel Wine Boutique Venceslau. (Though we did not taste or purchase any wines.) Awesome room with a tiny balcony. Yay, we can dry our clothes outside! The room had a view of an ancient Roman aqueduct!

-Then we walked to Igreja Matriz de São João (or the “mother church” of St. John the Baptist) which has stunning gilded altars (main and side).

-Next was a small riverside park surrounding a bend in the Ave River saw a replica of a 16th century Portuguese explorer ship.  Then, surprise (!), another church — the Capela de Sao Roque. (Passed two other pilgrims, from Germany.)

-Went by a mercado on the way to dinner at Café Saura Cool (part of a chain called Café Christina). Had 70’s album covers adorning two walls above and near the bar and a young hip waitstaff, otherwise was more formal with black chairs and tables, white tablecloths, and stemware. This was our first time tasting a “pilgrim menu”, which was excellent.  The menus are offered all along the Camino, and you must be a pilgrim to partake. For just 8 euros, we were served soup, fish, fries, rice, salad, and coffee. The bartender also proudly brought us “poncha”, on the house, a delightful liqueur with honey, lemon, and spices to top off the meal. 

-We are grateful pilgrims this night! Was perfect 70° weather today. Hoping for more of same as we set out to explore the aqueduct and surroundings in the morning! Deo Gratias!

Prayer Requests

Do you have a prayer request? Please let us know and we will pray for you on our next pilgrimage.