Camino Portuguese, Day 2: Matosinhos to Vila do Conde

Map of our route from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde
The route from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde follows the coast the whole way.

Leaving Matosinhos

The route to Vila do Conde took us back past the Matosinhos Mercado, bringing back memories of that excellent meal from the day before. After passing the Mercado we had to cross the drawbridge, Ponte novel de Leca, which was a 3-story climb. The bridge had an elevator for pedestrians to ride up but we thought taking it wouldn’t be in keeping with the spirit of the Camino. The bridge crosses the Rio Leca in the dredged-out section of the river, which serves as a port.

Once in Leca da Palmeira, we took a left to find the coast again.

On the Boardwalk to Vila do Conde

The Camino Portuguese seems to have 2 choices of walking surface, cobblestones or boardwalk. For this day, we chose the boardwalk, which was much more pleasant than the sidewalk, and more efficient than the sand. The route was mostly boardwalk all the way to Vila do Conde.

Laura pointing to the welcome messages on the Portugal coast boardwalk. The messages say "good journey" in six languages.
Welcome to the boardwalk.
Boardwalk with beach and ocean to the left.
More California vibes with walking on the boardwalk along the Camino Portuguese Coast.

Guardian Angels

No evil shall befall you, nor shall affliction come near your tent, for to His Angels God has given command about you, that they guard you in all your ways. Upon their hands they will bear you up, lest you dash your foot against a stone.

Psalm 91:10-12
Painting on tile of a guardian angel protecting two children as they cross a bridge.
Tile image of Guardian Angel adorning a house on the Portuguese coast.

Azulejos, the tiles you see in Portugal, are one of the more amazing aspects of walking the Camino Portuguese. Each day, we saw dozens ranging from the classic blue and white patterned tiles decorating a building’s exterior to color art tiles that depict a scene or religious symbology.

Once, we walked by a house across from the beach with a huge panel of painted tiles depicting a guardian angel protecting 2 children crossing a river on a perilous bridge. That image (shown nearby) spurred a conversation about the nature of guardian angels and several examples in our lives where we were sure that our angels were looking out after us.

The azulejos that show religious scenes or symbols really help to reinforce the spiritual nature of our Camino and help us to become pilgrims rather than tourists.

Later in the day, as we approached Vila do Conde, our guardian angels helped us. See Laura’s log for the details of our escape.

Saint Pelayo

In the year 925, a 13-year-old boy was tortured to death for refusing to renounce his Christianity. That boy was St. Pelagius of Cordova. (his name is also spelled Pelayo and Paio in different languages) His uncle was the bishop in Porto. After his death, his remains were scattered, some on the northern Portuguese coast, possibly in an effort to provoke his uncle. Later, in 1632, the Portuguese citizens built a chapel to honor St. Pelagius (they call him S. Paio)

Small stone chapel with azulejo tiles adorning the front.
Chapel of S. Paio, honoring the boy martyr who refused to renounce Christianity.

Ensalada de Atum

Exhausted and hot, we plopped down at a table at a café on the beach. The place was packed and only one server working that day, he seemed to be the owner. He had a knack for not looking at us, or acknowledging our presence until it was our turn to be served. The table behind Laura had a local family out for a day at the beach, with their lovely golden retriever. The table behind me had four guys hammering back the Super Bocks and generally being pretty needy.

It was a Friday, so we weren’t eating meat that day. I ordered ensalada de atum, or tuna salad. I was expecting something like I would get in California, a seared Ahi tuna filet on a bed of mixed greens with a fancy vinaigrette dressing. What I received was very simple, just iceberg lettuce, half a can of tuna, and some olives, all dressed with olive oil. I was starving from walking for 5 hours, so I ate every bit and loved it. We loved the simplicity of this meal, it’s packed with nutrients, and flavor, and is light in body. Since then, this meal has become one of our favorites, we make it at home often.

Laura enjoying a Super Bock.
Enjoying a Super Bock while waiting for the ensalada de atum.

Pulpo

Speaking of seafood, shortly after lunch we encountered a fisherman who was about to clean his catch. He was spearfishing just off the coast and had a variety of fin fish and a couple of octopi. Later, we learned about the delicacy called Pulpo a la Gallega, a classic in Galicia. According to the fisherman, the octopus fight pretty hard, with their 8 arms and ability to grab the fishing line. He was very happy with his catch.

Portuguese fisherman's catch that day, with several fin fish and a couple of octopi.
Portuguese fisherman’s catch that day, with several fin fish and a couple of octopi.

Monastery of Santa Clara

It was decided to close the monastery (or convent — the terms are often used interchangeably) of Santa Clara in 1834, but it remained open until the last sister passed away in 1893. In 1626, construction began on the aqueduct that supplied fresh water to the convent. That aqueduct traveled 2.5 miles and had 999 arches.

Construction is happening again at the monastery. It is being converted into a 5-star hotel by the Lince Group and is expected to open this year. Next time on the Camino, perhaps we will stay at the convent.

Church of the Santa Clara convent, with a rose window.
The rose window in the convent.
The end of the aqueduct that fed water to the Santa Clara Convent, in Vila do Conde.
The end of the aqueduct that fed water to the Santa Clara Convent.

Laura’s Log

-Walked toward Vila do Conde on a well-kept wooden boardwalk along the Atlantic Coast!  Rocky beach with the constant powerful rhythmic drumming of white-caps connecting with the shore. Historic sites around each bend.

-At times reminiscent of Monterey (where I lived for two years) with flora of brightly-colored low growing blooms, super-vivid purples, magentas, oranges, and pinks. At other times, reminds me of Ireland/UK with thriving bracken, ramshackle wooden stairs growing out of embankments, and even a charming small stone church from 1623!

Boardwalk with beach bather in the background.
From the boardwalk, tiny chapel atop the hill; note stairs at center-right.

-Lunch seaside with an adorable gigantic golden retriever at a crazy-busy “mom ‘n’ pop” place.  I even had a beer. Learned a lesson (again!) about judging based on appearances. Will blog about this and many of the other lessons of the Camino.

-Turned in from the coast and bid adieu to the ocean for a bit.

Church as we approach Vila do Conde
View as we said goodbye to the sea and turned inland at the yellow marker; near-death experience ensued.

-Walking on road now (not on the walking path) at the turnoff and had a near miss when a car on the dirt road took the turn wide and right into our space at the very edge of the barely existent berm. We leapt out of the way! Thank you God and guardian angels!

-Also saw many sites along the way, such as the sight of Nordic runes, burial sites, and the like, all with historical markers.  One Camino marker was my favorite.

Favorite Way Marker.

It depicts the Camino symbols of the scallop shell and St. James Cross and says in Portuguese and in English:

Walk with your heart and embrace your Camino.

-Even saw two scuba fisherman who had caught several fish and a few octopi –– we stopped to ooh and ahh and chat. One explained the tricky art of octopus catching.  You wrap it around a hook and then “shoot” it.  All the while it suctions onto your arms.  Wished him a hearty “parabens” (congratulations!), one of the few Portuguese words recalled at the appropriate moment.

-Spied upright metal heart of flowers with Portuguese and Ukrainian flags set over a bench in support of Ukraine in war with Russia.

Peace for Ukraine.
Shades of Monterey, California.
Sacred Heart of Jesus tile along the Way.

-Arrived at Hotel Wine Boutique Venceslau. (Though we did not taste or purchase any wines.) Awesome room with a tiny balcony. Yay, we can dry our clothes outside! The room had a view of an ancient Roman aqueduct!

View of an ancient aqueduct from the hotel window in Vila do Conde.
View of an ancient aqueduct from the hotel window in Vila do Conde.
Tile with the Blessed Mother on the outside of the building across the street.
View of tile on facing house through our balcony.

-Then we walked to Igreja Matriz de São João (or the “mother church” of St. John the Baptist) which has stunning gilded altars (main and side).

The main altar of Sao João
The main altar of Sao João.
Sanctuary of Sao João.
Sanctuary of Sao João.
Close up of top of the carved door of Sao João.
Close up of top of the carved door of Sao João.
Pieta of Sao João.
Pieta of Sao João.

-Next was a small riverside park surrounding a bend in the Ave River saw a replica of a 16th century Portuguese explorer ship.  Then, surprise (!), another church — the Capela de Sao Roque. (Passed two other pilgrims, from Germany.)

Adorable Sao Roque Chapel's simple exterior; alas it was locked on this evening.
Adorable Sao Roque Chapel’s simple exterior; alas it was locked on this evening.
Explanation of Sao Roque; English on the bottom.
Explanation of Sao Roque; English on the bottom.

-Went by a mercado on the way to dinner at Café Saura Cool (part of a chain called Café Christina). Had 70’s album covers adorning two walls above and near the bar and a young hip waitstaff, otherwise was more formal with black chairs and tables, white tablecloths, and stemware. This was our first time tasting a “pilgrim menu”, which was excellent.  The menus are offered all along the Camino, and you must be a pilgrim to partake. For just 8 euros, we were served soup, fish, fries, rice, salad, and coffee. The bartender also proudly brought us “poncha”, on the house, a delightful liqueur with honey, lemon, and spices to top off the meal. 

-We are grateful pilgrims this night! Was perfect 70° weather today. Hoping for more of same as we set out to explore the aqueduct and surroundings in the morning! Deo Gratias!

Calla lilies grow wild on the Camino, like white diamonds on the wild green.
Calla lilies grow wild on the Camino, like white diamonds on the wild green.

Prayer Requests

Do you have a prayer request? Please let us know and we will pray for you on our next pilgrimage.

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