Ponte de Lima
In 138 AD, the Roman soldiers refused to cross the Lima river. They were afraid that it was actually the Lethe River of myth, the River of Forgetfulness.
Their general, Junio Bruto, rode his horse across to show that it was OK. The men did cross, but they were shouting their own names the whole way to test their memory.
Laura and I just walked across the bridge known as Ponte de Lima.
The bridge that we see today was completed in 1316. Five of the original arches, from the original Roman bridge, are still present in the northern section.
Vinho Verde de Minho
I agree with Gonçalo Costa, many do consider the vinho verde tinto as undrinkable, and I am part of that crowd. We tried the vinho verde because it’s a specialty of Ponte de Lima, but ours had a very strong taste of spoiled wine.
Next time, we will be educated and ask for a white vinho verde with the Alvarinho or Loureiro grapes.
This was one of the few times we ever walked away from our wine, and we even offered our remaining jug to several tables of local residents. They all refused our gesture.
Laura’s Log
-Up early to do a proper laundry load at Lavandaria self-service laundromat. Washing clothes in the sink is fine, but sometimes you want a full-on wash — and an actual dryer! Stopped at a café to wait for it to open. Delightful almond pound cake, extra-shiny “eggy” croissant — and coffee.
-On the way there passed imposing Gothic-ish house on the corner, Villa Belmira. In the early morning light, it had a deliciously eerie quality. Turned out it’s a hotel.
-Stopped at a small grocery store, bursting with fabulously fresh vegetables and good cheer on the corner from our street to get lunch. Tuna, black-eyed peas, lettuce, and tomato. Re-creation of John’s atun (tuna) salad on the coast. Ate at ‘home’ after a rest. Yet rest was not possible due to church bells going off every 15 minutes. Alas, a small ‘con’ of being “right on the square”!
-After lunch walked to the other side of Ponte de Lima. Over the famous bridge! Cool experience, all that history!
-There’s a life-size horse and rider statue of a historical leader of the army on the river bank. Saw a huge carved statue of Saint James’ face. Tremendous piece of art!
-To the enchanting themed Arnado Botanical Park. Walked around. Laughter of little children, bubbling of fountains, and sweet scents of flowers washed over us. An oasis.
-Passed a few churches. One was on the bridge or rather in between the part of the bridge built in 1 AD and the part built in medieval times (due to the Lima River changing course) — Igreja de Santo Antonio da Torre Velha (St. Anthony of the Old Tower).
-Went into a ceramic artisan’s shop. Liked his creations and watching him work, though he was somewhat less hospitable than his welcoming signs outside. To both of our dismay, we didn’t buy anything — only because then we’d have to carry it!
-Had a drink at Tasquinha de Pepe, a mom-and-pop bar. Extreme throwback vibe, including old-timer patrons. It’s quite hot out, so the refreshment is most appreciated.
-Stopped at woodworking/ refurbishing shop that welcomes pilgrims and sells various items. Will pass by here tomorrow. For now, back over the bridge. Saw fellow pilgrim Joe and chatted a bit. All pilgrims are talking about tomorrow’s big ascent, and we are no exception! (Got postcards and stamps.)
-To dinner outside to write postcards. A non-memorable place, except for the kind waitress and how they served “vinho verde” (fizzy wine made from young grapes). It came in an adorable ceramic picture with 2 matching “cups” the size and shape of Chinese restaurant rice bowls! This is how the wine is traditionally served and drunk. A little awkward, but a fun experience. Not sure we’ll get this wine again, though!
–We went to Igreja de Misericordia de Ponte de Lima (Mercy Church) to sneak a peek before the 6:30 pm Mass. Stunning, ornate gold, just beautiful! (Then back to CTT to get more postcards and stamps.)
-Headed to Mass where the priest blessed a joyful couple who had been married 25 years! Lovely. Saw them later about town and wished them “parabens” (congratulations). Caught up with Canadian Camino friends Joe and Kay again who also went to Mass. They invited us to have a drink. Pleasing to sit al fresco on the square as evening came alive. Talked about healthcare and then residential schools in Canada that had abused children. (May God have mercy, and bless and heal the victims.) Eventually, lighter topics later ensued!
-Walked almost five miles today. Even on a rest day! Tomorrow is about 10 miles on rough terrain, up a steep hill to the summit. We can do it! Deo gratias!
Prayer Requests
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