Steepest climb between Porto and Santiago
Today was the steepest climb that we encountered between Porto and Santiago. This was the most challenging segment of our Camino. Some pilgrims decided to skip the big climb and take a taxi to the summit. We took our time and rested frequently to admire the view. “See that rock, it’s like climbing 2 flights of stairs, we can do that.”
It started with a Bell
One of the amazing experiences on the Camino has been the support and encouragement of the local residents. They seem genuinely happy for us, with “Bom Caminhos” and horn honking, delivered with a smile.
Leaving Ponte de Lima, we walked by a woodworking shop. The craftsman didn’t speak much English but signaled for us to sign his log book, and wait 1 minute. He donned a pilgrim’s hat, grabbed his staff, and rang the bell.
Then, he gestured for me to update the Pilgrim Counter (we were 1486 and 1487). He then stamped our pilgrim passports, one of our most memorable stops. We wanted to purchase some of his handiworks, but alas, that would have added weight to our packs.
Natural Trail instead of Cobblestone
So far, the Portuguese Central Route seemed to have a ton of cobblestone roads. Before, we had imagined walking through forest paths, maybe along streams. Today, we largely got our wish.
Shrine near the Summit
The last push up the hill was pretty steep, very much like climbing stairs. This is the steepest climb on our Camino. Once we were approaching the summit, we saw this shrine, a cross. This was a perfect place to pause and reflect. Pilgrims have left various mementos including stones, shells, photos, and cards. The photos and cards were especially memorable, they generally were of people that had passed away. Pilgrims dedicated their Camino to a loved one who passed away.
Both of us had lost someone recently, making this a touching moment for us.
After a few moments of reflection, we saw an older gentleman coming up the hill. As he approached, we noticed that he was wearing a hat from a US Navy ship. Perfect opening to ask if he was a Navy vet.
After thanking him for his service, we learned he was from Virginia and was walking the Camino alone. His wife could not come, but he compromised with her by utilizing a tour group. The tour operator dropped him off and picked him up each day. We ran into him a couple more times during the Camino.
I must be Norwegian
After the summit, we walked several miles downhill until we saw a sign, a sign for beer!. The Roulote Bar is a house, with a trailer butted against the house and a bartender in the trailer. They had about a dozen picnic tables in the backyard with yellow umbrellas. With two cold beers in hand, we looked for an open table but had no luck. The closest was a table with a lone woman sitting there, drinking her beer. We asked if we could share the table, and of course, it being the Camino, she said yes.
She was from Norway and commented that this was her favorite day because of the hills. In Norway, all of her hikes were in the mountains, and she has trouble walking on flat ground. We mentioned that I had Norwegian heritage, but just a small part of my heritage. She looked me in the eyes and said, no with your eyes you are Norwegian!
She was on the Camino with a group of friends, but she took her own pace. Her friends walked straight to the albergue, then spent the afternoon hanging around the albergue. Her pace was to stop and enjoy the sights (and beer) along the way, then roll into the albergue later. No sense in sitting around.
Down to our last 9 Euros
Our place for tonight, the albergue, only took cash. That drained most of my available cash for the day, and the next ATM was in the next town. So, we were down to our last 9 Euros. The two restaurants in town also only took cash, we didn’t have enough for even a pilgrim’s menu meal.
Luckily, there was a market in town and we were able to purchase food with a credit card, having a feast of tuna, crackers, olives, and fruit. I really liked shopping in the market, seeing how the locals bought food. So, this was a great experience.
Laura’s Log
-Our nine-month wedding anniversary!
-Biggest ascent! 14-mile day! On the way at 8 am. Stopped at carpenter shop (aka woodworking/ refurbishing place of yesterday) of enthusiastic Camino supporter sporting a floppy pilgrim hat to get a stamp from him on the way out of town. (It seems any vendor or non-profit can create a stamp for the pilgrim credencial, and many do. Good for their business and nice for the pilgrims.) He was quite a lively character as he motioned for John to erase his simple “pilgrim counter” plaque — to keep track for the ’21-’22 season — and add us at the bottom. Then he rang the bell twice for us!
-Stopped for coffee at the quaint Café Pescaria Oasis do Caminho, perched high above a fish hatchery basin. Many chatty pilgrims enjoying a break from the sun under the covered area. Two sweet dogs; one kept me company while Mr. Wonderful waited in line.
-Saw Capela de Nossa Senhora das Neves (Our Lady of the Snows Chapel). Amazing views of this church in mountains.
-Along the way up a hill, an elderly man, dapper and diminutive with the most arresting pellucid eyes, began a current of earnest conversation. Did not seem to register that we do not speak Portuguese. Eventually through his fervent speech and determined gesticulation we comprehended that he wanted a hug and later a kiss on the cheek (um beijo na bochecha) from me. Was an awkward exchange because he would not let go of the embrace.
-Sweet little lunch stop at a petite niche shrine with Jesus on the Cross. Great shady place to take off our packs and munch on our chorizo, cheese and bread.
-At last, the ascent! Made it to the top, super-steep. Over rocks and boulders. Switched from trusty sandals to trail runners for this trek. Uphill climb most of way. Last part is quite intense. Rutted, rocky, uneven, loose stones and steep! (Some people get a taxi to the top and walk down the mountain.)
-Good teamwork between John and me, encouraging each other.
-View from the top was spectacular. Met an amiable retired Navy vet from Fairfax, Virginia; where I lived for many years. (Only 4th American we’ve seen.) He took our pic at summit. Scattered pilgrims lounging about, celebrating and re-hydrating.
-Then there’s the descent. Deeply sloped. Thank goodness for my walking poles. Paced ourselves and remembered often that we are here to enjoy and go at our own pace. There is a phrase — ‘do your own Camino’. Indeed!
-Rested and quenched our thirst at an informal café — a trailer in someone’s yard, with spots to sit dotted all about. The air was filled with the steady hum of several foreign languages peppered with laughter. Began conversing with a pilgrim who let us share her table, the athletic and seasoned hiker Kirsti who wore a simple red Cross of St. James necklace. Her skin was etched from decades in the sun, and her crystalline light blue eyes had an intensity akin to the icy climes of her native Norway. We spoke about her homeland some. John is part Norwegian, and this intrigued her. Kirsti was walking behind her friends as they preferred to get to the lodgings much earlier in the day than she did. (This happened with more than one group we came across. Everyone walks their own Camino, pace included.) She said she enjoyed the solo time. Kirsti also shared that she found the Camino route a bit flat and harder for her in a way compared to her usual hikes, and her photos atop snowy mountains in Norway revealed the steep climbs she was used to. This was her second Camino, her first on the Portuguese route. Happy to have crossed paths with this thoughtful inquisitive mother of five.
-Made it to Casa de São Sebastião, modest accommodation. Running low on money after we had to pay cash for the room. Tried two restaurants for dinner, yet our remaining nine euros would not go far enough. Walked on the highway 15 minutes to a mercado that took credit cards. And back. Exhausted, hot, and hungry at that point.
Once we returned, we settled in, closed the window on all the happy shouts and exchanges of the “young’uns” outside and got the a/c moving some heavy air around. Moving a side table between the beds made-do for a pleasant atmosphere and welcome dinner of olives, tuna, cheese, crackers and wine! (Room had twin beds; let’s not do that again!)
Now we are on the Via Romana (Roman Way)! Deo gratias!
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