Cash is King
Our typical day is to wake, pack our bags, start walking, and stop in the first hour for breakfast and coffee. Today was no different, except I used our last few Euros on 2 coffees and a croissant. Breakfast was like being at home, we ran into a number of our “Camino family”, who also stopped there for breakfast.
While Laura was chatting with a new couple, I went to the ATM and drew some Euros. I also grabbed a few extras, putting a 20 in my backpack, and gave Laura 20 so we wouldn’t run out again. The best part, it was getting less expensive to convert US Dollars.
Camino is Life
It was about this time that we really started to enjoy this life. The simplicity of getting up, walking, finding food, cleaning our clothes, then sleeping was having a lasting effect. Our life was really pretty simple. That gave space for deeper conversations and reflections.
We decided to extend our Camino to walk to Finisterre. We also talked with a couple about the Via Francigena. The Camino life caught us. Checking in back home, we learned that extending by a week wasn’t possible, oh well, we had to extend by 10 days instead.
The Last Slice
Camino Ninja told us there would be food in the town but it looked small and residential. Oh well, we will get the next town. But suddenly, we turned a corner and the Quinta Estrada Romana appeared before us.
It’s Friday again, and we aren’t eating meat. Thank goodness that Lemon Almond Torte doesn’t contain meat!
I did lose some weight during the Camino, but not as much as I thought. I wonder why?
This was the last slice available, so we shared and savored every bite.
The rest of the meal was great, we highly recommend this albergue: good food and new friends, a fantastic stop. Plus, this albergue is the halfway point of our Camino.
Valença
The last mile or two were a bit tough, it was hot and we were walking through the city of Valença, dodging cars, and construction sites, and waiting for stop lights to turn green. We made it to the Hotel Val Flores hot and sweaty. The lady that checked us in stamped our passports, and gave some fantastic advice. She told us about our walk the next day would have an alternative route, leading through a forest. She said, “Always take the alternative route when it is provided”.
Spoiler alert for tomorrow, she was right. We followed her advice for the rest of the Camino and were happy for the alternatives.
The fortress of old Valença is foreboding, but we found a secret entrance by following the yellow arrows. Once inside, we saw a couple of interesting chapels, many clothing shops, an Orvis fly shop, and the Bom Jesus restaurant. After touring the town, we ate at Bom Jesus (how could we eat anywhere else, plus it is one of the better seafood places in Valença.
Early to bed, then, because we had an early start the next day. It’s going to be a long one tomorrow.
Laura’s Log
-Up out at 8:20 am.
-Nice coffee at Café Snack-Bar Castro. Saw Joe and Kay briefly. Also met a jet-setting and down-to-earth Austrian couple making the Camino. The wife was a government secretary who had just been sworn in for the position in Vienna the previous day. The husband was some kind of international investment banker type who was intently working on his laptop and phone whilst at the café. They are the ones from whom we first heard the prophetic words: Via Francigena. They lovingly described another Camino — with Rome as the destination. (But that is another story altogether!)
-Lovely stop for lunch just when we wanted it Quinta Estrada Romana, cozy Camino haven run by a German woman. Nice surprise to see Joe and Kay again, sitting at the end of a large table inside, which they invited us to share. (They were staying overnight there and seemed to enormously enjoy ‘holding court’, greeting other pilgrims who came and went throughout the day.) We got fabulous soup, tuna sandwich, and for dessert — torte! A female Navy veteran, an officer, was there and Brad, the other Navy vet, came by. We introduced them and heard them talking shop a bit.
-Rested at Café Contrasta on city outskirts. Quite hot today, and we are tired.
-Plodded our way into our destination of Valença! Accomodations at centrally located Hotel Val Flores. Friendly faces for weary travelers at front desk. Did our laundry in the sink per usual. Revived ourselves.
-Out to explore. Came upon a chapel. Kindly elderly man was literally closing up one of its two doors. I asked him if we could look inside, and he said yes. The chapel, Capela de Sao Sebastiao/Capela do Senhor do Encontro (Chapel of St. Sebastian/Chapel of Encounter with the Lord), had a large Crucifix laying down on the floor in front of the altar at an angle. Unique “display” to be sure. Afterwards, the same man pulled me aside somewhat conspiratorially and led us to a larger church, the well-marbled, ornate and intimate Capela do Bom Jesus (Good Jesus Chapel)! Considerate soul.
-Strolled across busy street and up steep hill toward romantic old-town Valença. Traversed through festively decorated ancient stone tunnels of this walled section of the city. Some cars also negotiating the extremely tight single lanes, scraping the walls in their passing! Several shops selling a variety of textiles and home goods. Made way up to famous historic fort called Fortificações da Praça de Valença do Minho overlooking River Minho and valley. Saw hills of Spain across ramparts! Took our time to drink in glorious sun-filled scene.
-Drinks and snacks on patio at Café Portugal. Dinner at Restaurant Bom Jesus, outside under white canopy tent. John got popular Sagres beer. Traipsed back through park and gaped at 90-foot tall trees there!
-Tiring day overall. Mr. W. has a cold, I have some blisters, and — we are totally fine. Over halfway! Only 116 kilometers to Santiago! Tomorrow we get up and walk again. Into Spain!!! Deo gratias!
Prayer Requests
Do you have a prayer request? Please let us know and we will pray for you on our next pilgrimage.