Best Rest Day Ever
One of the best blessings of this whole trip was to not have specific time constraints. When we needed a rest day, we took one. When we were sore, we took a few shorter days.
We were still planning to be in Europe for 10 more days, so no need to leave Santiago right away. A second day to rest and absorb the Camino was perfect.
The Holy Door
This is a Holy Year for the Camino, which means the Porta Santa (Holy Door) is open. We had the opportunity to enter and earn a plenary indulgence.
Initially, we made a beeline to the door, but going in was chaotic. Security guards enforced the masking policy and searching backpacks. Luckily, we were able to explore the door in a more relaxed manner on the second day.
The bas-relief panels tell the story of Saint James: being an apostle, his martyrdom, and burial under the field of stars.
Visiting Saint James
One of the most emotional events of the Camino was visiting the tomb of Saint James. The tomb is located under the main alter and accessible via small tunnel.
We went right after 7:30 Mass, it wasn’t crowded allowing us to stay and pray.
Hostal Reis Catolicos
Armed with a recent income tax refund, and the joy of completing the Camino, we splurged with staying at Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, right on the plaza.
In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue on boats supplied by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. The two monarchs also commissioned this hotel to be built after their pilgrimage. Lots of history here.
Proving we are Pilgrims
Having a full day to explore Santiago allowed us to visit the extensive Cathedral Museum. Entry fees for pilgrims were €2 less, so we said yes, we are pilgrims. The ticket lady asked for proof that we were pilgrims.
Wow, that was new. We had spent the past 2 weeks as obvious pilgrims, backpack, shells, walking sticks, sweat and blisters. This was the first time we were asked to prove that we were pilgrims.
Having received our Compostelas the day before, we were no longer carrying the Credencial, but luckily had photos of our Compostela on our phones.
Botafumeiro
We had heard that the Botafumeiro is only displayed during special events because of the expense, so we had low expectations.
While in the museum, we noticed a man lighting a fire in the courtyard. It looked like he was preparing a barbecue. We asked and in hand signals let us know that he was preparing the Botafumeiro. We immediately abandoned the museum and went back to the cathedral.
The bishop was celebrating Mass, and shortly after communion, the six men started swinging the Botafumeiro. Luck was with us that day.
Ave Maria
Right after the Botafumeiro finished, a soloist sang the Ave Maria. What a way to finish a Mass. Watch it on YouTube.
Laura's Log
-Many blessings today!
-Mass #1 at Cathedral — we arrived over 30 minutes early to get a seat at the 7:30 Mass. Interestingly, there were less than two dozen of us there!
(St. Salomé below.)
-Praying at the Tomb — We then took a closer look around the Cathedral and found St. James’ Tomb. You walk down a few steps, through a low doorway and there it is. I was overcome with emotion at that moment and knew instantly that’s where I had to leave a small braided ribbon for my Dad who died earlier this year. John and I both shared a private moment praying there. (No crowds of folks wrapping around the interior of the church waiting for their turn to access the Tomb at this hour as we saw later.)
-Surprised and joyful to see signs on the side chapels in the cathedral announcing Confessions were being heard in several languages. A gift.
-Sumptuous breakfast on our return after Mass — the hotel has an extravagant breakfast for pilgrims at lavishly set tables with formally attired waiters at your elbow and smartly-dressed diners all around. Feels strange to be in such a fancy setting after weeks of walking in dust and dirt, wearing our practical pilgrim togs. The sounds of the spirited yet subdued cacophony of many languages envelope us. Our little table seems like an island unto itself. Enjoying the abundance on offer, from five kinds of juice to made-to-order omelets as well as all the pastries under the Galician sun.
-Cathedral Museum — this spectacular museum surrounds and is part of the Cathedral edifice. It is probably the best museum I’ve ever been in. Elegant presentations, fine explanations and a fabulous integration of the building itself as art and as a palette to display the treasures of over 1200 years!
-The vaqueros we saw earlier on the Way made it to Santiago. Turns out they were singing cowboys!
-While at the museum, as John shared above, we saw a man hovering over a small flaming pot in a curious location — by a door leading to the church. He was smoking as he stood there. It’s chilly here today, so the fire could have been for warmth, but we asked him in our lame Spanish what it was. He motioned it was for the incense in the thurible, to get the incense heated up. This is a huge deal here — called the “Botafumeiro” in the Galician language, it is a massive censer that hangs from the ceiling. Operating it costs 400 euros to each time! It weighs 180 lbs. and takes 6-8 men to do it! We had so wanted to see it, but we understand they don’t do it very often. So, we decided to wait in line for…
…Mass #2 – waiting in a drizzle for 20 minutes for the Noon Pilgrims’ Mass to try to see it. They check each person’s bag and let you in in groups of 10 or so to keep track. Slow going. Crazy crowded. The Bishop was there, and the homily was long. In Spanish of course (of which we only know a little). All worth it. Seeing the Botafumeiro near the conclusion of Mass was extraordinary — simply delightful! After that “show”, again as John described herein, the Mass ended with a solo female singing the “Ave Maria”. Sublime in that excellent acoustic space.
-Adoration Chapel — We prayed in front of Blessed Sacrament at chapel inside Cathedral for all the intentions of people who wrote us and for our own. As at Fatima, we read (whispered) each intention aloud together. Dozens of people had prayer requests, and the actual intentions number in the hundreds. So blessed to be able to do this.
-Indoor Comfort — Time to come inside for a warming drink at our hotel bar (“Café Bombón” for me — coffee with sweetened condensed milk) and later a shared (veal and bacon!) burger. That’s Galicia! We camped out there for some time as I was calling my mom and editing (fooling around with!) photos, and John was busy…
…Planning the next phase of our trip. We are working our way east to eventually fly out of Milan. (For many reasons, we are not heading to Finisterre – it was not part of our original plan anyway.) We decided to keep up the pilgrimage effort and go to Oviedo in Spain, then to Lourdes and Turin. Not on foot of course! Lots of logistics! We will see how it all works out. As I said, we are well and truly blessed. Deo gratias!
