Pilgrimage to Lourdes
We were walking to Santiago de Compostela and hit that point of the Camino where we said, “I wish this would never end.” Then, “Lets keep going to Finisterra”. However, blisters upon blisters had us searching for other ways to extend our pilgrimage, without walking.
Extending our pilgrimage to other sites was in order. The map showed us that we could drive to Oviedo, Lourdes, and Turin on our way to Milan. We will write about the Holy Shrouds of Oviedo and Turin in other posts. Here is our story of our Pilgrimage to Lourdes.
Visiting Lourdes
We drove to Lourdes but the car is not necessary once you’ve arrived. We parked in the garage and didn’t take the car out until we left. Once we arrived in the town of Lourdes, it was a little difficult to find our way to the Sanctuary. The navigation app that I was using kept routing me the wrong way on one-way streets.
Overall, we spent a day and a half at Lourdes, which seemed like the bare minimum. We had time to do everything we wanted, but just once.
Lourdes was our first stop in France, and France means food. We surely lost a few pounds walking the Camino, but certainly added them back in France.
Hôtel Royal
We stayed at the Hôtel Royal, which was very close to the Sanctuary. Everything we needed, especially the Sanctuary, was an easy walk from this hotel.
Our room got a little warm at night, so we opened the windows and had a little, but very little, noise. Lourdes is a quiet town at night, as you would expect.
Laura's Log
DAY 1
What can be said? We walked to the San Sebastián bus station this morning, backpacks and souvenirs from the wonders of Oviedo in tow, and we rented a car. A little over two hours later, voila — we were in the serenity of the French countryside wherein lies LOURDES! The town is sweet and touristy in a very pro-Catholic way. Then, you enter the Sanctuary itself…
…It is like walking into another world. (Mr. Wonderful affectionately called it a Disneyland for Catholics; that would be the Disney of yesteryear.) It seems out of time. The strong-flowing Gave de Pau River runs through the middle of the expansive green grounds. A magnificent Gothic cathedral sits atop the rock outcropping above the precious Grotto of Massabielle. The Grotto houses the healing Spring that (Saint) Bernadette Soubirous dug in 1858 by obeying Our Lady’s directions during an apparition of the Virgin. The events of Lourdes’ fame are shown in this short video (especially the first two minutes), and here is a link to the famous film The Song of Bernadette.
Today the Spring is covered by plexiglass. You can walk into the Grotto area whenever you like, so after lunch in the charming village, we headed there where the 3 pm Rosary was being prayed in English. (The Rosary is said in different languages throughout the day at the Grotto; as in Fatima.) We saw the Spring which was incredibly moving and touched the water coming down the boulders there which was equally so. Water flows over and down the massive grotto rocks in two other places, and you can touch it and put it on your arms or face as we saw others do and which we did.
Next was time for the baths. You cannot fully immerse in the baths at this time due to corona virus restrictions, however you can still enter the area. The kind hospitallers are everywhere, from everywhere. These women volunteers look like a cross between modern nuns and old time-y British nurses. The male hospitallers dress in suits mostly. They all help guide everyone around and often are pulling people who cannot walk or have other infirmities in wheeled carts all over. We waited on benches outside maybe 15 minutes for our turn, and then were guided over by a gentle older man into a private bath chamber with a sweet hospitaller lady. She spoke neither English nor French, it seemed, but motioned that we ought do as St. Bernadette did: wash our hands, wash our face and drink of the water. We did not know how to begin. First, we knelt. No, she indicated, not that. She pointed to the floor, so we began to walk down the slope to the large bath in front of us. No, that too was not the thing to do. So, we tentatively came back. Then the lady pointed to a grate on the floor, and again we knelt down. But how to get to the water? She silently took a pitcher of the healing water and poured it over our hands. First me, then John. Three times she poured water out for each of us. We rubbed our hands to wash them with the water, washed our faces with it and then cupped our hands to drink it in. It was incredibly powerful.
After that “high”, we stood by the rushing river in the sunshine to collect ourselves. All around were ill folks with canes, walkers, and in the manually pulled wheelchairs. Also, families, older people, school groups, nuns, priests — there’s a serenity and a hope everywhere.
Now we were drawn to the votive candle area across the river. There are several covered bays in a row with iron candle stands, somewhat like those in churches, but much larger. The stands are under massive range-style hoods because each candelabra bay holds hundreds of candles of all sizes. The largest candle cost 500 Euros — at least that is the requested donation! We lit a (small) candle for all of the intentions we brought. A few of the bays were being cleaned out — they burn 400 tons of wax a year here!
Making our way to the church on this side of the river, there was a chapel there with the Blessed Sacrament where we prayed. We saw dozens of people spaced out under tall shade trees. They were going to Confession outside! We inquired about Confession in English with an older hospitaller gentleman standing there. He explained in rapid-fire French how to get to the Confession Building — that way, by the flowers. When we arrived, the signage led us to the wrong place, but eventually we got to there, one door over. After waiting less than five minutes, we were able to have a wonderful Indian-from-India priest hear our Confessions. There was a tiny chapel where you could say your penance. This whole offering of Confessions in five languages (French, Dutch, English, German, and Spanish) of course is an incredible gift. It was the same at Santiago de Compostela. Priests everywhere, forgiving sins “in persona Christi”, for hours and hours!
We visited the famous Basilica over the Grotto with its flying buttresses. It is three churches in one, each on top of the other! So much to explore. We spent time studying and appreciating each mystery of the Rosary which are superbly depicted in detailed mosaics on the sides of and behind the Basilica altar. Such a marvel!
It was a full day. As I asked at the beginning, what can be said, except: Thanks be to God for this blessed place and the joy of being here!!!
Day 2
Up for 9 am English pilgrim Mass in the Chapel of Sts. Cosmos and Damian, on second floor of building next to Confession bldg. — away and on the opposite side of the river from the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception/Basilica of the Rosary/Crypt Church (3 churches in 1). Six priests con-celebrating, including our Indian Confessor from yesterday, who was the main celebrant and homilist. A white-haired stout Irish woman firmly proclaimed the songs to be sung from the first row — she reminded me of our dear Carmel (R. I. P.). It is really just a large room with an altar and a crucifix (all you need!) and simple pews, no kneelers. Only 50 or so at Mass. The priest spoke of the holy name of Jesus. It is a powerful name when we say it with devotion, faith, and authority. Jesus’ name can heal sickness, heal from evil and save our souls.
Accidentally discovered a museum on way out of Mass building. It was all about how the apparitions unfolded in Lourdes and specifically about the 70 medically-verified healings from the water here (as of 2023). The last one happened to a French nun in 2018. There are actually over 7,000 inexplicable healings, but most people cured choose not to go through the rigorous 8-10 year process of authenticating a healing.
Quick breakfast of crepes and a rest. (No a/c and quite warm last night.) Next, back to the Sanctuary we watched an informative and beautiful 2020 film, narrated in English, all about St. Bernadette, the Apparitions, and the history of Lourdes.
Right after the film was time for our most important mission — to kneel down together and say aloud all the prayer intentions at the Grotto and then to place them in the prayer box there. It took twenty minutes to carry out this privilege. Halfway through we moved aside from the Grotto pews as the 3 pm Rosary began. As we finished reciting the intentions, we heard all the harmony of the great many voices praying all around us. Into the box went the intentions and that was a big moment, both to “leave behind” something we’ve carried everywhere for almost a month, and also to know our prayers would be multiplied.
Later was a trip to the Sanctuary bookstore for a small baguette and morsel of cheese (yum). We are sitting by the stone wall of bronze faucets where the healing waters constantly flow, resting a bit. As I write this the heraldic horns have begun. It is the start of the 5 pm Rosary Procession. We just filled many glass bottles with the water to bring home. So peaceful with the French choir and piped organ music as the Procession slowly is making its way around the grounds. Thank you, Jesus.
We wanted to pray the Stations next, however the ones we knew about high up on a hill were closed today due to the winds. At the information center they informed us there were other Stations and we made our way there. They were beautiful marble carvings, maybe eight feet high, stunning in their detail, style, and facial expressions!
It’s 10:30 pm as I begin typing this, and we just returned from the Candlelight Rosary Procession. Wow, is it a magnificent prayer event! They have a full choir, organ, numerous priests, prayers in several languages, and everyone slowly circles ’round the Sanctuary for about an hour singing and praying the Sorrowful Mysteries. Everyone gathers at the doors/entry/in front of the Basilica. “Leading” the Procession is a lit up large white statue of Notre Dame de Lourdes encased in glass. St. Bernadette said that part of “the Lady’s” message was about light and that there should be a procession there at the Grotto. This has been carried out to the utmost.
For us a highlight came near the end of the Rosary when we were all back at the Basilica. The prayer requests of that day from the Grotto Box had been placed in two large urns on each end of the area. Then, at the same time, the bowls were solemnly carried into the center. The lead priest, carrying his candle, prayed over them, and he asked everyone there to pray for them! So, THOUSANDS prayed for the intentions!!! It was all “true gift” and an absolute confirmation that we were meant to be here and to leave the intentions here.
As they said at the dismissal tonight, the mission of Lourdes is to provide hope and confidence for you to carry your cross, to reveal that God loves you as you are with all your wounds, weaknesses and limitations, and to let you know that while you may not be happy in this life, by personal conversion and by embracing your cross, you will be happy in the next life — which is the most important thing.
