VISITING THE SAVIOR
Laura’s Log
Apartment with a View
We arrived in Oviedo in the evening to settle in at “Wamba Studio”. Our apartment was named after the bell of the nearby and totally MAGNIFICENT Catedral Metropolitana Basílica de San Salvador (St. Savior Cathedral) which was built in the 8th century. With a view of the bell tower aglow in the setting sun, we instantly fell in love with our modern comfortable little pad.
First built in 762, the San Salvador Cathedral was destroyed by Moors in 792 and rebuilt just ten years later. The present Gothic style church was added to the old Basilica in the 11th century and has been renovated many times since then. The front, with its portico, doorways and tower, is one of the most important examples of Hispano-Flemish Gothic architecture in the world.
Sanctuary
The reredos (decoration or altarpiece) of the high altar shows 23 scenes in the life of Christ and the Virgin, many sculptures of Apostles, Evangelists, prophets, and saints under canopies on the predella (altarpiece base) and under the dust canopy. Included here is a scene of the Miracle at the Cana Wedding, where water in six stone jars was made into wine by Jesus, but depicting only five jars because the sixth one is onsite!
Rose Window on North Wall
This is the only original one remaining here. It is Gothic tracery style.
Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber)
First built in 884, around 1101-1130, Bishop Don Pelayo (not to be confused with King Pelayo from centuries prior) converted the upper floor into this Holy Chamber Shrine dedicated to Archangel Michael. Comprised of a nave and presbytery, the latter holds all the treasures of the Asturian Monarchy, especially the relics of the Holy Casket. In the nave, six pairs of columns, with an Apostle carved in high relief on each, guard the storehouse of riches. The Apostles are: Sts. Thomas and Bartholomew, Sts. Peter and Paul, Sts. James the Lesser and Philip, Sts. Matthew and Andrew, Sts. James the Greater and John, and Sts. Simon and Jude Thaddeus.
The valuables in the presbytery include: the Holy Casket itself (donated in 1075), the Chest of Agates (donated in 910), the Cross of Victory (donated in 908) and the Cross of the Angels (donated in 808).
The Chest of Agates is a coffer made by disciples of the Apostles. It held the most precious relics of the Holy City and was taken from Jerusalem to Africa, and other locales, before coming to rest here (thanks to King Alfonso II).
There are even five espina (thorns) from the Crown of Thorns Jesus was made to wear.
Most Venerated
Finally, the Holy Sudarium is the most venerated relic. This is the cloth that was wrapped around the bloodied head of Christ during the Crucifixion (reference the Gospel of John 20:7). It is kept in a cupboard behind the Cross of the Angels and is only shown three days a year: Good Friday, September 14th (Feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross) and September 21st (the Octave of the Feast).
Mujer Messenger?
After we were praying in the room with the sacred relics, a kind and passionate Spanish woman approached me — earnestly wanting to communicate. A young female backpacker saw this and graciously translated as the woman implored me to go visit the apparition site called Garabandal. She shared that she didn’t normally speak to strangers and never had such an inspiration before, but she had a message for me that I needed to go to there. The site is a tiny village where apparitions of St. Michael the Archangel and the Virgin Mary are alleged; they have not been approved or disproved by the Church. Intrigued by our messenger, we did inquire about getting there at a few places online. When we asked in the Basilica gift shop, the two ladies working were extremely helpful. Alas, it was too late in the morning to get transportation there. (It is over three hours one-way by bus.) Another time perhaps.
The Cloister
Not to be forgotten is the gorgeous Gothic cloister, begun in 1300 and finished over 140 years later.
Visiting the Lord
As it has been for pilgrims for over a millennia, the draw to come here was like a magnet. From the “Oviedo Cathedral Brief Guide”, link and emphases mine:
During the Middle Ages, the relics kept in the Holy Chamber made this Cathedral, the Iberian Peninsula’s second pilgrimage center. The presence of relics of Jesus Christ (which is why the Cathedral is gained the appellation Sancta Ovetensis) served to emphasize the relative importance of Oviedo and Santiago de Compostela. (“Whoever goes to Santiago — Saint James’ — and not to Saint Savior’s visits the servant, and not the Lord”, as the French pilgrims were wont to sing) and to attract part of the flow of the Jamesian pilgrims. The period of greatest influx was the 12th-15th centuries, when Romanesque and Gothic renovation phases were going on. Illustrious pilgrims to Saint Savior’s included Kings Alfonso VI (1075), Alfonso IX of Leon (first third of the 13th century) and Alfonso XI (1345) and…Pope SaintJohn Paul II (1989).
Encountering the relics of Jesus Christ penetrates the heart. Oviedo is indeed a place of wonder worthy of the the Savior, the Lord!
