San Galgano: Tuscany's Hidden Spiritual Treasure
Researching for our 2023 Via Francigena, Laura found the Abbey of San Galgano, not far from Siena. She was struck by the legend of Saint Galgano, a knight who had a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel and decided to convert from a life typical of a Tuscan nobleman to a life of spiritual devotion. To show his commitment, he struck his sword into a stone, where it remains to this day.
When the day came, we arrived in Siena with blistered feet and sorely in need of rest. So, we forwent the day trip to the abbey and opted to rest instead. But, during aperitivo that evening the idea came that someday we would return with a car and see the sights that we missed by being on foot. This year, that idea came to fruition.
Another sign that San Galgano was in our future was the release of Andrea Bocelli’s film, The Journey, about his horseback Via Francigena, where significant scenes were filmed at the abbey. We were not able to see this film in theaters, because it was on while we were walking the Via Francigena. Finally, when the Blu-ray was released, the stunning San Galgano scenes cemented our return visit.
Saint Galgano Guidotti — The Knight Who Became a Hermit
Galgano Guidotti was born in 1148 to a noble family in Chiusdino, a small hilltop town in the Tuscan countryside about 45 minutes from Siena, by car. Unlike many saints who showed early signs of piety, young Galgano was quite the opposite — a worldly knight devoted to the pleasures and privileges of his social class.
Historical accounts describe him as vain, violent, and self-indulgent, embodying the more troubling aspects of medieval knighthood. Yet his life took a dramatic turn around the age of 32 when, after a series of visions of the Archangel Michael, he experienced a profound spiritual awakening. In 1180, as a symbolic rejection of his former life of violence, he plunged his sword into a stone on Montesiepi hill, creating a cross that he could pray before.
He then established himself as a hermit on that same hill, living in extreme poverty and dedicating himself to prayer and penance. His reputation for holiness quickly spread throughout the region, attracting both humble pilgrims and powerful nobles who sought his counsel.
Galgano died just a year later in 1181, but the brief intensity of his holy life left an indelible mark on the spiritual landscape of Tuscany. He was canonized in 1185 by Pope Lucius III, making Galgano among the first saints whose canonization followed the Roman Church’s newly formalized process, requiring approval of the Successor of Saint Peter. Previously, a saint could be called such at the local level, perhaps lacking rigorous examination of their life and miracles.
Saint Galgano: Sword in the Stone
The abbey complex has two major sites, the now-roofless monastery, completely open to the sky, and the Chapel of Montesiepi at the top of the hill. The Hermitage is an active Catholic church, circular in shape with the Sword in the Stone in the center.
The chapel is free to enter; it has a gift shop and toilets nearby.
The sword remains visible today, protected within a glass case inside the Chapel of Montesiepi. Only the hilt and a portion of the blade are visible above the stone. Scientific examinations conducted in 2001 confirmed that the metal dates to the 12th century, and ground-penetrating radar revealed that a cavity extends beneath the rock—potentially containing the remainder of the blade.
The sword in the stone legend form King Arthur may have been influenced by this sword. The Arthurian legend of Excalibur is first found in print in the 15th century, hundreds of years later, leading some scholars to suggest that the holy Tuscan man Galgano may have been the origin story.
The Abbey of Saint Galgano — Magnificent Ruins
Just a short walk downhill from the chapel housing the sword stands one of Italy’s most hauntingly beautiful ruins — the Abbey of San Galgano. It was completed in the 13th century when the abbey reached the height of its power and influence.
The abbey’s history follows a familiar pattern of rise and decline. After flourishing in the 13th century, it began a slow deterioration marked by a series of abbots more interested in its revenues than spiritual leadership. By the late 16th century, the roof had collapsed, and in 1786, the bell tower fell, nearly destroying the adjacent buildings. The monastery was officially suppressed in 1652, though the buildings had been largely abandoned long before.
Chiusdino — The Saint's Birthplace
About 15 minutes away lies Chiusdino, the picturesque medieval town where Saint Galgano was born. It is a hilltop town overlooking the Tuscan countryside. The narrow, winding streets and stone buildings have changed little since Galgano’s time. We visited churches related to the saint, the Saint Galgano museum, and ate a delicious lunch in a cave at La Grotta di Tiburzi.
Uphill from the museum lie three churches. The Propositura di San Michele Arcangelo is a medieval-period parish church in Chiusdino’s center featuring Renaissance architecture with two 16th-century paintings by Alessandro Casolani (Saint Galgano in Prayer and Our Lady of the Rosary) and a reliquary containing the saint’s head. The 13th century Gothic-style Chiesa di Compagnia di San Galgano contains a bas-relief of Saint Galgano thrusting his sword into the rock. Finally, the Chiesa di San Sebastiano, built in medieval times to house its namesake’s relics, features a Renaissance-style facade with a 1466 bas-relief of Saint Galgano’s sword in the stone and a polychrome sculpture of him kneeling before his sword.
The museum houses several relics of the saint, including a tooth and part of his skull, preserved in an ornate reliquary. There are also many depictions of the saint, and his act of thrusting his sword into stone. Also, other sacred art is displayed, including frescoes on the ceiling and icons of the Madonna with Child.
One admission ticket is good for both the Chiusdino museum and the San Galgano Abbey. We paid 6 Euros. Entry into active churches as well to the Chapel of Montesiepi is free.
St. Galgano, pray for us!