Our Via Francigena
We completed the Via Francigena (VF) a couple of years ago, and documented our journey mostly on YouTube. Below is a compilation of those videos.
We learned about the Via Francigena from other pilgrims while walking the Camino de Santiago. Shortly thereafter, we started planning. Spending the time to walk the entire VF was not feasible, so we broke it up into two major trips. First, we drove sections of the VF from Canterbury, United Kingdom through Lausanne, Switzerland. Then, we walked from Lucca to Rome; well, mostly walked…
Altopascio to Fucecchio
“Tuscany is the poetry of Italy in every step you take.” (unknown)
Our first day of walking the Via Francigena was from Altopascio to Fucecchio in Tuscany. We spent the night in Lucca, having explored the churches there the day before, then followed the advice from our guidebook to take the train to Altopascio and start walking from there. This day we learned the joys of Latte Macchiato and Budino al riso for breakfast. In Altopascio, we visited St. James the Greater church and in Galleno had a nice pizza lunch. The video also shows a number of beautiful roadside shrines.
Fucecchio to San Miniato in Tuscany, Italy
“It was easy to love God in all that was beautiful. The lessons of deeper knowledge, though, instructed me to embrace God in all things.” -St. Francis of Assisi
Our pilgrimage continued to San Miniato, home to the Convento San Francesco, a monastery founded by Saint Francis. This section of the Via Francigena is beautiful. Well, so far every section was picturesque, but walking through Tuscany is amazing.
San Miniato to Gambassi Terme
“One sees great things from the valley; only small things from the peak.” -G.K. Chesterton
Our longest walk so far, from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme. This day had its ups and down, both literally and figuratively. The rolling hills of Tuscany had us going either uphill or downhill most of the day, no flat areas. While the walk was long, and no food or drink services were available on the route, it was amazingly beautiful with views of the Val d’Elsa (Valley of Elsa) the entire way. We even met a buon cane (good dog) who followed us for a bit.
Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano
“…His glory will be shelter and protection: shade from the parching heat of day, refuge and cover from storm and rain.” -Isaiah 4:6
On we go from Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano and find a few nice surprises along the way. The scenery of Tuscany is a joy, and walking through the Chianti region is a gift. The Sanctuary of Pancole was a delight, where we indeed took sanctuary during a driving rainstorm, giving us time to learn the amazing history of this place. In 1944, the German army destroyed the church. Clearing the rubble away, the locals found the only thing surviving was their painting of the Madonna with Child.
San Gimignano to Colle di Val d’Elsa
“A man’s got to know his limitations.” -Inspector “Dirty” Harry Callahan in “Magnum Force” film
We took the recommended variant Via Francigena route through Colle di Val d’Elsa, which is an 8-mile walk. The full stage to Monteriggioni would have been an 18-mile walk, which is too much for us at this point. We started at the San Gimignano Duomo and were amazed with the frescos and with the Saint Fina (Seraphina) chapel and her relic.
Colle di Val d’Elsa to Monteriggioni
“And into the forest I go to lose my mind and find my soul.” -John Muir
Our Via Francigena continues, starting from Colle di Val d’Elsa, a medieval town, to Monteriggioni, another medieval town in Tuscany. The path today was mostly forest, and a pleasant walk. We stopped for lunch in Strove, at the piazza of martyrs and saw several nice churches along the way. As we approached Monteriggioni, we stopped at the “Abbey Island”, or Abbadia a Isola. It’s called the Abbey Island because it used to have a formidable moat surrounding the Abbey. Our hotel this night was just shy of the old town of Monteriggioni, so we left exploring it for the next morning.
Monteriggioni to Siena
“A stranger is just a friend I haven’t met yet.” -Will Rogers
John developed a very large blister on his heel and was doubtful if he could make the walk to Siena. Luckily, a nice German couple saw his pain and offered a ride to Siena. Accepting help from a kind stranger seemed the thing to do this day. Monteriggioni is a small medieval town, ringed with a stone wall and towers. Santa Maria Assunta was built in 1213 and a good place for us to say our prayers this day. Onto Siena, where we were blown away by the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico.
Resting in Siena
“If you want to find someone who will listen to you in your troubles, find St. Joseph.” -St. André Bessette
There is no better place to take a rest day, while walking the Via Francigena, than Siena. Plus, it was the feast day of Saint Joseph (San Giuseppe)! We were able to explore the Duomo and Saint Catherine’s home before heading to the Basilica of St Francis (San Francesco). The Basilica of San Francesco houses the Eucharistic Miracle of Siena. We went to pray at the tabernacle when a priest came in with a group of school children. He opened the tabernacle and we were able to see the miraculously preserved hosts. Then, a stroll into the Onda Contrada during the feast of Saint Joseph rewarded us with fresh frittelle di San Giuseppe and a porcini sandwich.
Siena to More di Cuna
Chi va piano va sano e va lontano. (He who goes slowly, goes safely and goes far.)
It’s time to leave Siena and continue our journey to Rome. A quick stop at the Saint George church on the way out revealed some outstanding artwork. The views of Tuscany from this trail are spectacular, especially looking back towards Siena. On the trail, several of the locals asked if we were walking to Roma, then gave us a big smile and a “Buona Fortuna” to send us along. Also, as you will see in the video, portions of the trail became MUDDY.
Cuna to Buonconvento
Primavera dintorno / Brilla nell’aria, e per li campi esulta / Sì ch’a mirarla intenerisce il core. (Spring brightens the air around, exults in the fields, so the heart is moved to see it.) -Giacomo Leopardi
As our Via Francigena pilgrimage continues, we walk from Cuna, just south of Siena, to Buonconvento. Springtime has arrived in Tuscany. The trees were in bloom, bees buzzing, and flowers everywhere. The sunny hills beckoned John to break out the drone and capture some footage. Sts. Peter & Paul church in Buonconvento has a very unique stained glass window with Jesus and a number of other prominent historical figures and saints admiring Him.
Buonconvento to Torrenieri, Brunello di Montalcino
“Wine is the only artwork you can drink.” -Luis Fernando Olaverri
Our Via Francigena walk today was between Buonconvento and Torrenieri. The pleasant way through the hills of Tuscany was interrupted briefly when we happened upon the Caparzo Winery. They were offering the “pilgrim’s lunch”, a sandwich, bottle of cold water, and a glass of wine for 8 Euros. We had to stop. We were lucky that they were pouring the Brunello di Montalcino that day. If we weren’t walking uphill for another couple of hours, perhaps we would have stayed for more. When we made it to Torrenieri, we asked at the Enoteca (wine shop) if Caparzo’s Brunello was a good one. They answered, every Brunello is good. In Torrenieri, we stopped at Santa Maria Maddalena church to say our prayers. This church has a good collection of art featuring St. Mary Magdalene.
Torrenieri to San Quirico
Che bella regione! (What a beautiful area!)
We walked just 6 miles in preparation for two challenging (long, steep ascents!) days ahead. And a delightful route it was. As John remarked, all through the Tuscan region, you have to remember to stop and look behind you, all around you. Inevitably, there is an enchanting vista to behold. After a quick breakfast at a old-style bakery cafe decked out in anticipation of Easter, we started out at a great pace, quickly shedding our layers in the bright sun. Plenty of time to stop and take in flora and fauna (even wild tulips!) and fly the drone. We continued to have the inactive Monte Amiata volcano in our sights, the tallest mountain around at 5,700 feet, only 6 miles south of us now. Not many cars pass, perhaps 10 a day, for the short intervals when we are on auto-worthy roads. A handful of bikers whiz by now and then. One kind local man paused from his bike ride to wait for us at an intersection and point us on the “bellissimo” path. The charming art-filled little Collegiata di San Quirico church greeted us upon arrival to the fortified town of San Quirico d’Orcia. Dining a fuori (outside) at one of the only restaurants serving lunch was a treat (ribollita soup and more homemade pici pasta). Numerous vines fanned out from a thick gnarled trunk in one corner of the large terrace to create a massive canopy.
San Quirico to Gallina
E’ un castello? (Is that a castle?)
An elusive yet always visible small castle tower loomed over the hills today. The drone revealed it was more impressive from a distance, unlike some other ones we’ve seen. This windy day was nearly 11 miles of walking on the Via Francigena. (Total walk was over 13 as we don’t count walking around incidental to the pilgrimage trail.) The land is fanning out some and there are more farms versus villas, more stands of trees in fields as well as more forested areas and — more water to be crossed. At least four crossings… We may or may not have not seen a caution sign on a 100-foot-long footbridge over a river with many protruding white rocks below. We may or may not have seen a sign that said the bridge was chained with padlocks. We did, however, confirm by adjacent path signage and our guidebook that this bridge was the way through, er, over. Once on the other side, we continued to discover the beauty a Tuscan spring. Today brought ever-changing paths and roadways, flowering vistas, three art-filled rustic churches, thermal baths and even a white dove.
Gallina to Radicofani
Iniziamo bene la giornata! (Let’s start the day right!)
The sweet agriturismo proprieter dubbed Mrs. Sunflower made us a fantastic breakfast spread. Well-fed, we left Gallina. Six fords today. Fortunately, the River Orcia was running low throughout the valley. The terrain is changing to more forest and large white rocks and stones are in the riverbed and on the path. Boulders abound, too. One pathway was literally all tiny flowers underfoot which Laura found delightful. Tuscany is giving way to Lazio soon! We met a gregarious transplanted Coloradan (who has been here some 40 years through marriage), three seasoned Italian bikers (who regaled us with talk of tantalizing Italian “cammini”), and also a young Rome-born solo hiker (who professed to us that his heart was Tuscan). People seem increasingly outgoing as we go further south. Seeing the tall tower of our destination of Radicofani helped motivate us on the difficult 5-mile ascent at the end of our day. It was partly highway, ugh. We arrived at the summit via an old dirt road flanked by tall pine trees. Then we checked out the stunning panoramic views from the town park which honors Ghino Al Tocco, the Italian Robin Hood, who once resided in the castle. It was easy to visit San Pietro Church and Santa Assunta Oratory, which are side by side. Remarkable “della Robbia” ceramics adorn San Pietro and another church just across the piazza, Sant’Agata. We said our prayers in St. Peter’s where it was so cold inside you could see your breath!
Radicofani to Centeno
Giù nella valle! (Down in the valley!)
The lengthy descent today brought the valley walls all around as if we were in a bowl. The rocca (fortress tower) is a sentinel behind us and the expired volcano is now to our west, making for awesome views every time we turn around. The landscape continues to transform. There are forested areas with brown-leaved trees, some making a carpet beneath our feet. Ancient alluvial ridges marked with thick white and black veins fan out to the valley floor and profusions of white flowering bushes are everywhere. We’re in Lazio now, the region of Rome, continuing on parts of the Via Cassia. We met 5 Italians day-hiking, a British couple walking the VF, and later a chatty couple having a snack when we stopped at a food truck for lunch. Lunch was a nice surprise — sitting outside in the middle of nowhere alongside “Everyman Antonio” (proud Viterban hoping to walk the VF) and his companion the “Elegant Laura” (fur-trimmed coat, movie-star sunglasses and de rigeur cigarette, hailing from Rome) who was quite pleased upon discovering she and Laura shared the same first name. We passed a small private “pilgrim church” with, oddly, the medieval key right in the door. It had a very modern interior. Another modern church we came upon was locked. Dinner was a strikeout as we discovered (by walking there at 6 pm) the only food establishment opens at 7, and we don’t want to walk the highway in the dark. Thankfully, our warm-as-toast agriturismo stone cottage with tea and salsicca came to the rescue.
Centeno to San Lorenzo Nuovo and Visiting Acquapendente
Sole sulle nostre spalle! (Sunshine on our shoulders!)
We dodged the rain today. The forecast was rain till noon and storms all around, but we were not touched unless you count 10 refreshing drops around 4 pm. The clouds were a show all their own. We walked the first four miles of the day mostly on the highway to a stopping point of Acquapendente. The last mile or so was up a country hill filled with birdsong, down a dilapidated secret staircase and a final anticlimactic trudge up through a seedy section to the back gate city entry. We visited five churches in this village of about 5,000. One of them, the thousand-year-old Jerusalem-modeled crypt of Duomo di Acquapendente/Basilica Cattedrale di San Sepolcro with two relics of Jesus, was the main point of stopping here. We were able to see a tile stained with drops of blood from the tomb of Christ as we toured the crypt. Emotional!! The other relic is of the scourging pillar, and it is only on display at special times of year; we saw its reliquary. Also in this town, they celebrate a brave girl from the 1500s, Julia de Jacopo, who saved the city from an enemy attack when the army was away by closing the city gates. As we scouted out lunch, we met perfect-English-speaking stubbly forty-something Carlo in a café doorway. He saw us looking around and started helpfully pointing us to the tourist office, but instead began chatting and shared that he had been in the U.S. and basically said not to eat at that cafe. Post-pranzo, we met a lovely Australian couple in a church. Their travels will take them to Canterbury, Ireland and beyond. He is a retired minister. We four all joined hands and he led a prayer before parting ways. On to San Lorenzo Nuovo on the highway, through an industrial area, down farming tracks and tree-lined lanes. The land is dramatically different here. As are housing codes — we saw a pink house! Another agriturismo for tonight, five minutes from downtown, with a kind proprietress who was a fan of pilgrims and of Americans. Simple attic-like lodgings complete with sloping roof and skylight window did the trick — up three flights of gleaming marble stairs! We then sought out dinner in this quiet hamlet of 2,000. Minestrone soup here is delicious, served with croutons or pasta (you choose), and a twist — it’s puréed. John enjoyed veal scaloppine, a special choice for him, which was in a wonderfully light garlic and olive oil sauce. Delicioso!
San Lorenzo Nuovo to Bolsena
Quello è il lago! (There’s the lake!)
Making our way to Bolsena was initially a chilly proposition (which called for a second cup of coffee) as we ventured into windy 48 degree weather. Soon enough we were warmed up with our efforts and those of the Lazio sunshine. Today as we left town, there in the distance was Lake Bolsena, framed by huge trees! It is a volcanic crater. Continuing, we traversed newly cut forest and young forest and passed olive groves and freshly-plowed fields. Switchbacks and curving roads took us closer and then seemingly farther from our destination. “The Way” is not a direct one! We met a solo UK hiker doing some “wild camping”. No one else crossed our path except a wooly worm. Not much visible wildlife save for the ever-present birds. We’ve spotted two deer and one hare so far the entire time. A few romantic ruins and abandoned properties punctuated our walk. Conveniently, there was a stone bench nearby one ruin, perfect for a drone launch despite pretty high-breeze conditions. At that spot, as in many along the VF, there were random shards of ceramic tile that Laura started to collect, like gathering seashells. They dump tile bits to reinforce muddy old secondary roads it seems. Suddenly, a castle appeared silhouetted against Lake Bolsena. Magical. Once in the city, we carefully went down several super steep and super creepy dark-as-night alleys and declines (no stair steps!) to get to the heart of this small town where a Eucharistic miracle occurred. First, we made it to a restaurant in time for lunch. Gnochetti with shrimp scampi and anchovy pizza, please. A little homemade gelato, more droning and on to the 3:30 pm opening of Collegiata di Santa Cristina (church) and the catacombs therein. Here’s the miracle: In 1263, a Bohemian priest, Fr. Peter, was having doubts about the True Presence of the Blessed Sacrament (consecrated host) resulting in a crisis of his priestly vocation. He was counseled to go on pilgrimage to Rome and was celebrating Mass in Bolsena on the way. As he consecrated the host at Mass, it began to shed blood! He quickly wrapped it in the altar cloths and took it a few miles away to Orvieto where Pope Urban IV was. The miracle was quickly confirmed. The Feast of Corpus Christi was declared by the Pope a year later and has been celebrated for a thousand years since. A piece of altar floor stone with a blood drop is on display as is the altar itself. (Other miracle relics are in Orvieto.) The catacomb gate is unlocked, you are let through, and then the attendant closes it behind you. We saw Santa Cristina’s tomb and the dozens (hundreds?) of empty catacombs on the subterranean levels. Also displayed were inscriptions and designs from various tombs. Time to rest in our top story apartment with a balcony. A room with a view (of the lake). Did we mention the Lazio region is growing on us?
Bolsena to Montefiascone
Se non è un corpo incorruttibile, è un altro. (If it’s not one incorruptible body, it’s another.)
Hoping to see the incorruptible body of St. Lucia Fillippini, we went to the Basilica/Crypt of Santa Margherita d’Antiocha when we arrived. (Well, it was many churches later, to tell the whole story.) Unfortunately for us, they were cleaning it with a giant 7-car crew that evening. We decided to stay longer the next morning to see it. Alas, we found out from the kind worker nearby in the orange jumpsuit — it’s a BIG cleaning, even the ceilings, bell towers, etc. It seems it was in preparation for Easter. So, no luck there. (He even went down himself to see if the crypt entrance was open!) This church has the second largest dome after St. Peter’s. The churches we did see were quite striking: –Chiesa di San Flaviano, in Romanesque style, was rebuilt in 1032. It has outstanding 14th and 15th century frescoes. –Chiesa de Sant’Andrea in Campo is from the 11th century. –Santuario Santa Maria delle Grazie from 1333. –Chiesa di Corpus Domini from 1924 celebrates St. Pancrazio. In search of dinner, we inquired outside a place where there was a pilgrim sign. The man who we asked turned out to be Lidio, the president of the 100 km Via Francigena organization, and he was more than happy to open the office back up, stamp our pilgrim credentials and insist (er, strongly recommend) that we go to the Rocca Dei Papi (Pope Fortress) and Torre del Pellegrino (Pilgrim Tower) for the panoramic view, which we did the next day. The views were outstanding after the 93 step climb up the tower. There is also a fascinating historical and archeological museum. Popes often resided here in the 1200-1300s. Grazie, Lidio! Then we decided on an aperitivo place. Not only did the barmaid bring the snack that is always served “gratis” with a drink, but when we ordered another drink, she brought us two pieces of pizza, four mini sandwiches, two savory pastries and two pieces of homemade bread with different spreads. Wow! That’s dinner, done (and only €21)! Speaking of wine, there is an amusing story about a German Bishop Defuk who was on his way to Rome, passing through Montefiascone. He sent a servant ahead to scout out the best wine, which was indicated by the servant writing “Est!” (here it is) on the winery door. Imagine Bishop Defuk’s delight when he saw Est, Est, Est! on a door. He never made it to Rome, and in fact, we saw where he was buried — in St. Flaviano church! He never left his delicious wine! Next morning on leaving, we spied yet another church, San Bartolommeo. Locked again. Around the corner though was a seminary with an open door! “Scusi, è possibile visitare la chiesa?” “Certo!” Up jumped our new friend seminarian Abdella from Palestine to show us. This gorgeous small church holds numerous relics of well-known saints as well as the incorruptible body of “S. PII M.” under the main altar. We are still researching who exactly it is, as we could only communicate very basically with the earnest and kind Abdella, but it was something to see.
Montefiascone to Viterbo
“L’abito non fa il monaco.” (Don’t judge a book by its cover. Literally, the dress does not make the monk.)
Today’s walk brought us on more unusual road surfaces and included unusual flora. We even saw exotic birds (!) being trained. There was a massive cemetery at one point on the trek which is at least two blocks long. We enjoyed our lodgings and our quiet hip host Daniele. Our dinner was at a restaurant named “EAT” where we had yummy pizza accompanied by a little American music — Otis Redding anyone? With its 67,000 person population, Viterbo is unassuming and average-seeming when you enter. However, it is considered one of the best preserved medieval towns and dates back to Etruscan times. It boasts many charming piazzas and has oft-been a film setting. We especially enjoyed the San Pellegrino quarter. How did you come upon it, you may ask. Well…a mysterious French-speaking Italian gent (straight out of “Town & Country magazine) kept crossing our path and at one point pretty much insisted on taking us there. So kind, and we loved it. We visited churches here — surprise! They included: Sant’Angelo in Spatha, Santa Maria Nuova and a peek at least at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo (closed for floor cleaning but doors open!). There is also a lovely Papal Place. Said palace leads to a fascinating story. Do you know why the pope is elected as he is today? As we learned, in 1271 they were taking a VERY VERY VERY long time to elect the new pope here in Viterbo. After nearly three years (!), they locked everyone in the palace and stopped giving them food. Suddenly, they had a pope— Gregory X! The new process we have today was born out of this extremely protracted vote. With all its history, charming churches and ancient streets and sections, in the end, we were won over by Viterbo!
Viterbo to Vetralla
“A marzo taglia e pota, se non vuoi la botte vuota.” (In March cut and prune, or you’ll not have a good harvest.)
Leaving Viterbo for Vetralla brought us to miles of roads flanked on both sides by 15-foot-high walls of volcanic tufa. Cool and enjoyable. A warning of high winds again was in the forecast. We traversed bumpy roads, rutted paths, and white gravel lanes. Just as diverse were the ways farmers tended their olive orchards. Some had plowed under the trees so rich dark soil showed, others had mowed the grass short around them, and still others had let flowers and weeds spring up tall. One commonality was all had trimmed the middle section of the trees out and made piles for burning or, as we later learned, for use on Palm Sunday. Lunch was at the crest of a windswept hill by the side of a country road. Probably the most windy spot we could have chosen. In true pattern for us, a short time later a picnic table appeared. Oh well. Walking along, we partook of “Timothy hay” present at roadside (you gently pull it out of its sheath and chew on it). Many abandoned homes and ruins here as well. Agriculture surrounded us on this leg. Fields full to bursting! A dozen men harvesting purple cabbage replied to our shout of “Che Dio sia con voi” (May God be with you) with “E anche con voi” (And also with you), accompanied by broad gleaming smiles that shone white against their dark skin. One item of note from the encounter was that the whole crew carried gleaming machetes. It was a kick to see some white goats — billies in full beard, kids and momma. A family affair. Speaking of animals, as we entered town, a sweet lonely burro caught our attention by braying quite loudly and then by coming to the edge of his fence to see us. John quickly made friends. There was, surprisingly, a nifty open-air “museum” tucked in the small natural tufa caves at the side of the road leading to Vetralla. It showcased implements of earlier eras. The next morning we visited two churches: Sts. Andrea and Francesco and St. Anthony Abbot.
Vetralla to Capranica
“Il bosco non ha bisogno dell’uomo, che l’uomo che ha bisogno del bosco.” (The forest does not need man, but man needs the forest. —Seen on a sign entering a woodland park today.)
On leaving town, we spotted a Benedictine Monastery and stopped to visit the lovely chapel. An African sister was preparing the altar. Today had us walking through tree-lined roads, forested parks, chestnut and hazelnut groves (!) and impossibly tall fan trees that looked like illustrations straight out of Dr. Seuss. Stately cypresses also remained our sturdy companions. We picked up a simple lunch at a “EuroSpin” store on the way out of town. (Prosecco was just € 3.39! Not that we bought any!) Focaccia bread and salume filled the bill. We met two friendly Irish sisters enjoying a week of walking together. Today was their first day. We passed a sweet church, Madonna di Loreto, though it was boarded up. Then, we stopped to see a parish church, Chiesa Cuore Immacolato di Maria and snacked on chips on the grand stairs out front afterwards. Passersby waved and greeted us. After walking steadily up hill and stopping to eat the lunch we’d brought at a perfectly-placed brand new bench, we came upon Orlando Towers where there are ruins of a medieval monastery. It was the ideal drone time at this popular sunny intersection. We set up at the freshly-hewn wooden picnic table there. Kids were shouting and riding bikes back and forth. The Irish ladies passed looking up and wondering aloud if the drone was a swarm of bees. An old man drove up and excitedly came over to us. Uh-oh. Are drones not permitted here? But he was gesturing to the table. Seems he was part of putting the new benches and tables in this area. (Grazie, signore!) We think he said his brother owns the land. Complementing the romantic scene, a young movie-star-looks guy came riding up on horseback wearing jodhpurs. Crazy-tall fan and other trees made our heads spin in the last portion of this section. As we entered captivating Capranica, we appreciated the taste of the owner of an open garage that we passed by as it sported a classic cherry-red Fiat car and a framed photo of St. Padre Pio. This town has picturesque streets, piazzas and churches, though the latter were closed. Our digs for the night were a cozy apartment with a unique staircase, blazing pellet-fueled heater and loft. The next morning brought us through Capranica’s enchanting streets and down a dramatic switchback stone staircase to a quick and tasty “colazione” (breakfast). (€1.20 coffee anyone?)
Capranica to Monterosi
“Attenti ai cani!” (Beware of dogs!)
Palm Sunday is here. Last night when we inquired about Mass times to a sweet older man, he mentioned Palm Sunday and then got closer to us, leaned in and launched into an animated story. About what we have no idea. Sounded like Ptolemy was the subject, but that seems unlikely! Upon leaving captivating Capranica we came to the ancient town of Sutri. Here we saw Etruscan-era rock-hewn tombs and an amphitheater. There were lovely gardens and a (closed) church. Many families were out and about. We enjoyed a Sutri-style lunch on an expansive high terrace overlooking a park where the chiesa of the Madonna of Mithraeum is built right into the rock face (!). (Though the church was scheduled to be open, it was not.) It was an absolutely delightful walk through the forest! Waterfalls spill over rocks and fallen logs. Whimsical benches are sprinkled here and there as if carved by forest sprites — some are fitted together like Lincoln log toys. Rickety bridges deep in the woodlands beg for trolls to extract a crossing toll. Later, we suddenly had hazelnuts beneath our feet! (The hazelnut spread here is more chocolate-y AND more nutty than the famous brand.) Farther along the trail, a bleached-out animal skull nailed high on post and silhouetted against the darkening sky should have been a harbinger for what awaited us. As we admired a massive flock of sheep down a sleepy country road and John went to take a photo, something frightening happened (as you’ll see!). Finally, we made it to our home for the night. A passive older dog and a rambunctious 7-month-old pooch greeted us while our exasperated (and very short!) hostess tried with little success to rein the puppy in as it jumped all over us. Her kind (and very tall!) husband handled the dogs therafter. (“Maur-EEE-tzoh, ai cani!!!”) Our host, who bore somewhat of a resemblance to comic actor Roberto Benigni, literally stopped us coming down the stairs as we were exiting the house to tell “Mr. John From California” about his travels to the southwest US and most happily about his time in California. Finally, “Mr. John” explained that we needed to go out. We walked five minutes to dinner at the restaurant they recommended. Funnily enough, it was called “Gorgeous” and was a gorgeous way to end a dog-filled day. In the morning, as we quietly crept across the dog-free dew-laden yard, our host poked the upper half of his body out the upstairs window, wearing only his thin beige long johns — “Mr. John, Mr. John”. We turned around, and he exclaimed, “I see you in California, someday, Mr. John…maybe. Ha ha!”. He saluted us with a gangly arm as he cocked his head to the side, grinning widely.
Monterosi to Campagno di Roma
“Il buongiorno si vede dal mattino.” (A good day starts in the morning.)
After leaving our friendly hosts with their friendly dogs, it was time to go into Monterosi to visit Santa Croce church. Alas, it was locked. As we moved on, all of a sudden, a somewhat disheveled young man came running up to us shouting: “Pellegrini! Pellegrini!” His name was Matteo, and he worked for the tourist office. -Could he guide us pilgrims around and also have coffee together? -Um… Si. Va bene. First, he lead us back to his office at the local history museum and stamped our credential books. Monterosi even has a special Via Francigena “testimonium” paper just for their village. (Only one per family though.) Then Matteo eagerly showed us San Giuseppe church and also the now-open Santa Croce. Everyone in town knew Matteo, and he heartily greeted them all. As we walked along, he recommended his favorite “pizza and pane” place, and again mentioned he wanted to get a coffee with us. So we did. Unfortunately, some of the locals in the “caffè” seemed to give Matteo a hard time. Finally, it was time for us to part ways, and we thanked him profusely. He earnestly said, “it is my job”. We wished our kind-hearted guide all the best and God’s blessing. On our way out, we got food to go from the pizzeria place. It was definitely a winner and fortified us as we made our way through the “high wind warning” morning. We walked to “Le Cascate di Monte Gelato” (a protected regional park with waterfalls) and then stopped across the street for a light lunch. (€4 for a fantastic tuna panini.) Both the nature park and this family restaurant are popular with Romans escaping the city on weekends. Pressing on, we saw large cows eating in the middle of the dirt road and in the leafy ravine below. We confidently walked on through them. They were not fazed by us or by the lone jogger who raced by. It was a long climb traversing several switchbacks to get to our destination of Campangano di Roma in the region of Latium. On arrival at the summit, we sat to catch our breath. As if on cue, a sweet wiener dog got up from his sunny spot in the street, tiny tail a-wagging, eagerly eyeing us. Revived by his energy, we had a new companion for fifteen minutes or so through this once-glorious thousand-year-old town. Though we looked for him, we lost the spunky member of our parade of three only when we went in a church. Perhaps he greets all pilgrims to that point. Our hotel was in the old section on a main street. We washed our clothes in the sink per usual and hung them outside the window. (No one can see them from below, right?) It’s still so windy, the clothes threaten to go flying into the street at any moment, but they will be dry! Dinner at the hotel restaurant was a treat because of a massive hooded wood-fired grill in the dining room. The hotel proprietor, doubling as chef, first prepares the coals from the roaring fire and then grills all the meats on the menu throughout the nightly three-hour dinner service, including John’s excellent “mixed grill”. Antiques and art all around us added to the cozy ambience.
Campagnano di Roma to Formello
“Meglio tardi che mai.” (Better late than never.)
Breakfast was included at the hotel, though no one was there at our appointed time. The harried solo server arrived scrambling to unlock the door and tend to us, the only patrons. Really, we just wanted coffee and a “cornetto”, but she solicitously laid out the whole shebang. Grazie! It was a beautiful walk on a quiet country road today. We only needed to dodge cars here and there, heading uphill towards the Santuario Madonna del Sorbo. On the way, we discovered the joy of simple roadside Stations of the Cross. They were seven-foot-tall wooden crosses placed at seemingly random intervals with only Roman numerals to mark the stations. The last one was at the entrance to the 10th century Sanctuary edifice, formerly a castle and chapel which were made into a Carmelite monastery 600 years ago. At this clifftop refuge, we visited the church, prayed for everyone and had a snack in the sunshine. Now it was on to Formello. We went through a park and saw some wild boar grazing in a field! (Three adults and two babies.) Right after this, we crossed paths with a gregarious rough-and-tumble (and bit-of-stubble) Howard, who is walking northward, all the way from Rome to Canterbury! He eagerly recounted the story of how St. Æthelburh brought Christianity to his North England homeland through her marriage to King Edwin. He then shared the story of St. Eanswythe who may be the oldest Anglo-Saxon royal saint in the UK (7th century) and her miracle of making water run uphill. Through his 100-day journey, Sir Howard (as we later dubbed him) hopes to show his young daughters the importance of foregoing screens and living life. We also met an ambitious business-like Spaniard who is walking from Rome to Santiago de Compostela. It was an intense uphill at the end of this stage, but we are a little more used to it now. Our reward when we got in town was lunch at a fun fishing-themed place called Pescheria. We would not have seen it at all except they had a van with their name painted on it. It turns out the restaurant was practically hidden behind the vehicle. A wonderful meal of salmon ravioli, monkfish, etc. helped us pass some time until we could check in for the night. Our quirky-themed apartment had a spiral staircase and the decor included a bicycle coming straight out of a wall. Dinner was at a simple local joint with excellent pizza. We talked to the proprietor, Chef Daniele and to Server Sarah. Both were unusually warm and cheerful. Daniele spoke English well and was immediately interested in where we were from. (Without fail, the response of “Florida” brings a huge smile in Italy and an Ahhh. Many folks know individual cities and even the Everglades Park.) He then explained that the super-thin crust is the key to their pies. Daniele and Sarah proceeded to passionately compare pizza in different parts of Italy. (Their Napoli-style is best of course, Roma crust is too thick!) In their opinion, Americans have too many toppings and the crust is not right. Finally, they shook their heads as they asked the age-old question — why do we put pineapples on pizza???
Formello to La Storta
“One should lie empty, open, choiceless as a beach — waiting for a gift from the sea.” — Anne Morrow Lindbergh
A strange but exciting day today. Laura woke up not feeling well so we decided to stay on main roads more. The morning had us visiting the church of St. Lawrence the Martyr with its marvelous “meridiana” (sundial). A pinhole in the clock tower shines in a ray of sunlight on the astrological markings on the church floor. Following Google maps, we enjoyed a bucolic morning on a lane alongside farm fields, no cars. At the end though, we met a locked gate marked “vietato” nearby and were puzzled. Suddenly, it seemed we had been directed right onto private property! The crazed incessant barking of the farm’s guard dogs removed any doubt. How to get out? Hard to jump a fence with a backpack… Someone surely would come out at any moment…. Wait, is that an opening between the doghouses? Yes! We had only to sneak by the one large dog that wasn’t chained. He looked older and less aggressive, didn’t he? Let’s try it. “There’s a good boy”, “nice doggie”, “RUN!” Moments later, the farmer chugged by on his tractor. Buongiorno signore! Next, the ‘main roads option’ meant walking on Via Cassia, a highway (!), for four miles. Stopping for a quirky snack of fries, cappuccino and a muffin was comforting, even if it was at McDonald’s. It gave us a moment’s respite from the tense traffic dodging. We kept on walking right into La Storta whose name means “the curve” and is indicative of the twists and turns that the Via Cassia makes here. Now safely ensconced on a sidewalk, we met a dynamic thirty-something woman called Rossella, in a cheerful red sweater, walking a dog. We greeted each other and immediately felt a connection as we stumbled through a conversation. She asked us to pray for her sister Alessandra who had died, and she showed us a picture of her. Rossella poetically asked for us to pray for her at the Atlantic ocean back in Florida and said that she will pray for us on the Italian coast: “In this way, our prayers will travel across the waves and meet.” As we parted, she effusively proclaimed us kindred spirits. “Certo”, dear Rossella. A very few raindrops led us to a popular working class pizzeria (Laura was the only female present) till our accommodation’s check-in time. The hotel is renovating and fortunately, we were in a newly completed section. There is a cave here in La Storta in which St. Ignatius of Loyola had a vision in 1537. On his way to Rome, he saw God and Jesus in Heaven with a message saying, “You will have a propitious welcome in Rome.” This was especially significant because St. Ignatius was headed to the Eternal City somewhat anxiously as his purpose was to try to found the Society of Jesus. As it happened, he was indeed well received by the Pope who granted permission for a new religious order that we know today as the Jesuits. Marking this event is a tiny chapel in the “Piazza Della Visione”. The next morning, we took in this pilgrim waypoint (though the church itself was closed up tight), marveling at what had occurred here. We are closing in on Rome proper now!!
La Storta to Monte Mario
“Sempre curvo sulle necessita del prossimo.” -San Luigi Orione (Loose translation: Always turn to the needs of the neighbor.)
This morning we stopped at two churches on “The Way”. One was the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary. The other was the Blessed Virgin Mary Immaculata church. There are still Madonna and saint niches to be discovered on homes and also now Roman mythology decor. We’re still spotting cacti, too. One fun thing was seeing the public utilities marked with the “S. P. Q. R. “ (for Senatus Populus Que Romanus), an abbreviation in use since at least 80 BC. Our walk today is largely through the secluded 1,800-acre Insugherata Nature Reserve which is bordered by Via Trionfale and Via Cassia. The path is narrow. Single file time. To our left are brambles and high brush with an expansive field just beyond. To our right is a creek and wild thick forest, unexpected in a city park. The route is known as “Via dell’Acqua Traversa”. At one point, there is a river flats area and then a meadow where John sent the drone up for a quick look. It was here that a biker buzzed through and later a dad-daughter duo pedaled by. Other than that, our couple-of-hours expedition was only the birds and us. Upon exiting back to life on the streets (Via Trionfale), we soon heard loud songs and rowdy chants. It was a group of men whooping it up in some kind of celebration outdoors at a café next to a parish church we visited. San Francesco d’Assisi a Monte Mario features a stunning gilded altar and fresco work. Typical beauty of Italy! Our lodgings for the night were special. Pope St. John Paul II visited this place and afterwards requested an expansion be done, so pleased was he with their work. Named Casa per Ferie di Giovanni Paolo II, it was built specifically for pilgrims with disabilities traveling to Rome, though all are welcome. A missionary priest dedicated to helping those in need, Don Luigi Orione, whom the same pope recognized as a saint in 2004, founded a multi-storey home for people with disabilities here. (In fact, it was a friendly resident in a wheelchair who offered his help when we first arrived on campus.) After a restful stay, we, like the multitude of pilgrims before us, are eager to reach our destination tomorrow!
Final leg to Rome!
“And I tell you, you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church.” -Jesus (Matthew 16:18)
Easter is nigh. Today is Good Friday. We chose this day to reach our holy goal, and here it is. We pray as we walk. We unite ourselves with our Savior. Jesus said, “It is finished” twenty centuries ago today as he hung from the Cross. And so we are thankful, we are subdued. At the same time we are joyful. We are near the end… Monte Mario is the Way today. This is the highest hill of the modern Caput Mundi (Capital of the World). At the mountain top is the Osservatorio Astronomico di Roma. We are walking through the large, lush and shady nature reserve. (Tree varieties include: holm oak, cork oak, rock rose, linden, maple, ash, hazel, and dogwood.) The park is popular with early morning dog walkers (and stealth campers!) despite a warning about wild boar roaming about. (This stems from trash overflow “problems” in Rome, of which we saw plenty of evidence, but that is another story.) Thankfully, we did not encounter any boar. We did encounter our first sighting of St. Peter’s, however! What a thrill to walk past some foliage on the south side and look out over Roma to that unmistakable majestic dome! This is why pilgrims have long-called Monte Mario “Mons Gaudii” or Mountain of Joy. Yes! We stop to drink it in. Our journey’s end is in view! A wide path of large mossy cobblestones takes us down the shadowy mountainside. Zig-zag, zig-zag. Careful! Don’t want to slip now on this last steep section! Out of the quiet canopied sanctuary and on to the street we go and make our way to the aptly named “Viale Angelico” (Angel Avenue). Just a little over a mile left. No dome in sight now, but we are steady on course. Arriving at the “Porta Angelica”, we thread our way through throngs of people and suddenly burst into the famous Square. The Basilica is before us, surreal…glorious…sublime. Upon this rock of St. Peter, the Church was built. We are here! We are finally here!!! And Easter is nigh… Deo gratias!
