Why Compare the Camino to the Via Francigena?
Perhaps you are considering a walking pilgrimage in Europe and want to decide between the Camino de Santiago and the Via Francigena. Or, maybe you are a Camino veteran and want to see how the Via Francigena compares. We have finished both and wanted to share this comparison.
Teddy Roosevelt once said that “comparison is the thief of joy”. We present this comparison through the categories below as a way to help decide, not as a competition.
Adventure Hike
The Camino de Santiago and the Via Francigena are two of the most important walking pilgrimages in the Catholic faith, but from our experience, most people undertake these as adventure travel.
Slow travel is a wonderful way to experience another country, and the simplicity of walking helps with contemplation – leading to spiritual insights.
The Camino de Santiago is one of the quintessential semi-adventure hikes around. With plenty of infrastructure around, it’s not as challenging as the Appalachian trail, but it does sit in the bucket-list of many long-distance hikers. The Camino has many routes and extensions that you can take to vary the amount of adventure you seek. Crossing the Pyrenees mountains, having your own “The Sun Also Rises” moment in Pamplona, walking to the end of the Earth at Cape Finisterre. The many routes available resemble the scallop shell, which is the symbol of the Camino. |
The Via Francigena is a newer route (as developed into an adventure hike), and generally has a single itinerary developed by Archbishop Sigeric, from Canterbury to Rome, but its has a great variety in experience from southern England, crossing the English Channel, hiking through the Champagne region of France, crossing the Alps, and hiking the rolling hills of Italy. Being newer, it’s not as well known as the Cinque Terre hike, but that will change in time. The last couple of days of the VF are walking through the sprawling suburbs of Rome, taking away some of the adventure, although the route does take you through a couple of large parks as you approach Rome. |
We rate this a tie, both are excellent in their own way, but making a decision between the two will fall into personal preferences. No factor really stands out.
Culture
Slow traveling by walking through these countries gives one an opportunity to experience the culture intimately, and depending on your preferences, you may choose one over the other.
Spain and Portugal were new to both of us and we found the culture to be amazing.
The people were so friendly, even when language was a barrier, everyone was quick with a smile and a “Bom Dia”.
We found the Portuguese azulejos particularly amazing. We were so happy to see the many displays of faith throughout the country like roadside shrines and cruzeiros.
We come from Italian heritage, so were more familiar with the Italian culture, but being able to experience it up close and personal gave it a whole new meaning.
Likewise, a tie. We enjoyed learning the new-to-us culture of Portugal just as much as connecting to our Italian heritage.
History
Walking pilgrimages through both of these countries is like walking through history. Many of the stops along the route are rich in history and historical importance.
Spain has a rich history, with many influences from around the world. We learned of the Celtic influence in Galicia and the Moorish influence across Spain (and some relevance to Saint James). There were even connections to the discovery of America. We were able to stay at the Parador hotel in Santiago, which was founded by Queen Isabella, of Columbus fame.
You cannot escape history on the Via Francigena. Much of the route in Italy follows Roman roads, which lead to, well, Rome. The Roman empire once ruled much of the known world, its historical significance cannot be underestimated.
Tuscany is the land of the Renaissance. You are steeped in history with every mile walked and every walled city that you stay in.
The history of Christianity is also on full display. Saint Peter is the rock upon which the church was built, and you can see the very rocks under which Saint Peter is buried.
We have to give this one, hands down, to the Via Francigena. If learning and experiencing history is part of your motivation, the road to Rome is your best bet.
Faith
Shortly after we were married, we decided to undertake the “Big 3” pilgrimages: Santiago de Compostela, Rome, and the Holy land.
Walking the Camino and Via Francigena was explicitly a faith journey for us. We believe the faith aspects of these pilgrimages are important even if the goal is adventure travel. Who knows what might happen in a church along the route?
The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is a time-honored pilgrimage that helped form modern Europe. Pilgrims take this route to venerate the relics of Saint James, the apostle who spread Christianity to Spain, and thus much of the world.
The Camino de Santiago is one of the three most important pilgrims to Catholics.
Rome and the Holy Land are the two most important pilgrimages to Catholics. The Via Francigena is literally a pilgrimage to Rome to venerate Saint Peter, the founding father of Christianity.
Along the VF route, we found more open churches to pray along the way, the amazingly beautiful cathedrals of France, and once in Rome, many more “side pilgrimages” like the Seven Station Churches.
We undertook both the Camino de Santiago and the Via Francigena as Catholic pilgrimages. The pilgrimage to Rome is more significant, plus there are more opportunities along the way. |
Accessibility
In the movie The Way, we were struck by the scene where a woman said that she had not walked the Camino, because earlier in life she was too busy, and now she was too old.
Disabled people taking a pilgrimage is especially inspiring. Photo credit from disway blog.
The Camino seemed to have decent infrastructure for differently-abled people. We saw pilgrims in wheelchairs, the very old using walking sticks, and the very young being pushed in a stroller.
There were many signs for taxi cabs along the route, to help pilgrims that needed the help. One couple, with knee trouble, was able to complete the pilgrimage by using taxis for the very hard parts.
The Via Francigena had 3 different paths marked along the way. A route for hikers, one for bicycles, and even a car route.
The medieval towns were not built with the modern building codes that we are used to in the US.
Several stages were pretty long without services. Definitely no sign of taxis.
The Camino de Santiago seems much more accessible to those with disabilities.
Company of Other Pilgrims
A big part of the pilgrimage experience is your “Camino family” — those people you meet along the way, and share common experiences.
Being so popular, you see so many more pilgrims on the Camino. Plus, the other pilgrims are easy to recognize, because most are wearing shells. Especially after the 100Km towns (Sarria or Tui), the Camino has a steady flow of pilgrims.
Once you arrive in Santiago, most of the other people are there for the Camino, either as participants or tourists. You instantly have something in common.
Along the Via Francigena, there were far fewer pilgrims and fewer people in general. At least until the larger towns like Siena and Rome.
Rome is overwhelmed with people and tourists. You will be in large crowds, who seem to be mostly tourists with a tour group.
This one goes to the Camino. Even if you want to walk solo, you have that option on the Camino. When in a crowd, you will have a lot in common with the others in the crowd.
Commercial Infrastructure
We called these pilgrimages “Adventure Hikes”, but it’s adventure with support. That support comes from a commercial infrastructure that aids pilgrims along the route. Food, water, gear, stamps (for your “credencial”/pilgrimage passport), guide books, apps, and souvenirs. All of these come from vendors along the way.
The Camino de Santiago has been a popular event for several decades and has grown in popularity since the movie “The Way” was released in 2010. As such, there are more people which brings more commercial infrastructure.
The route has many vendors catering to pilgrims, from a simple bagpipe player, working for tips, to cafes that also double as hiking outfitters.
There are many more websites, guide books, and apps to help you along the Camino.
There is relatively little commercial infrastructure directly tied to the Via Francigena. Several of the stages have long stretches walking through the countryside and farmland without a cafe.
Much of the commercialization is related to general tourists. For example, we enjoyed stopping in wineries for lunch.
There are adequate guidebooks and some good apps to help, just not as many choices as the Camino.
The VF was fine, and the lack of commercialization was refreshing, but this category goes to the Camino due to the hiking and foot care support available.
The Destination of the Pilgrimage
The journey is what mostly counts, but each of these pilgrimages also has a destination. We spent time in Santiago and Rome to rest, recover, pay tribute to the respective Apostles, and enjoy the city.
Santiago de Compostela is a wonderful mid-sized town in Galicia. It’s a university town, and has some life outside the Cathedral, but is mostly about the Camino.
Rome and Vatican city are amazing, rich in culture, history, economy, and importance beyond the VF. We spent a week in Rome after arriving and felt like we just scratched the surface.
Rome has so much more to experience than Santiago de Compostela.
Cost
Walking as a mode of travel is definitely less expensive than previous vacations in Europe. The bulk of our expense each day was the hotel, and second the main meal of the day (in a restaurant). We definitely could have been more thrifty, but we undertook both pilgrimages in a similar manner, so the comparison is fair.
We were not trying to do the Camino on the cheap, we ate at least one meal at a restaurant each day and stayed in hotels or Airbnb rooms in the evening. We spent approximately 75 to 80 Euros per day. Many pilgrims share expenses through communal meals at the albergues (hostels).
Albergues are available in the 15 Euro range.
We followed a similar pattern on the Via Francigena, having one main meal in a restaurant while having leftovers or a snack for others. Also, we stayed mostly in hotels and Airbnb accommodations. Our spending was over 100 Euros per day, and even more the closer we got to Rome.
The albergues were available in the 15-20 Euro range.
The Camino is less expensive and can be accomplished for even less than we spent.
Concluding Remarks
We hope this comparison helps you make a decision. We aren’t going to declare a winner, since both are fantastic.
Buon Cammino and Buen Camino!