The Best Time to Walk the Via Francigena

The best time for the Via Francigena? Go when you can!

When is the best time for the Via Francigena?  Go when you can!  

The movie, The Way, staring Martin Sheen has inspired many pilgrims. One scene that really inspired us was when Tom (Sheen’s character) asked the albergue hostess (Angelica) if she had ever walked the Camino. She replied, “No. Earlier in life I was too busy, now I’m too old”. 

Martin Sheen as Tom in "The Way".
Angela Molina as Angelica in "The Way".

As soon as I saw that interaction, I booked our flights.  Earlier in life, there was no way I could take several weeks away from work. Also, we were raising kids which pulled us in many other directions. (Having said that, you could bring older children.)

Last year, I was on a sabbatical from work, and the kids were on their own so it was the perfect time to start doing long distance pilgrimages. Before I get too old. 

So, my advice, go when you can.

If you have summers off school or work, go in summer. If you are between jobs, or otherwise can get a way for a while, go when you have the opportunity. 

If you have flexibility, great news, you can time your pilgrimage for the optimal experience. Here are some factors that you can consider. 

  • Weather is always a factor when choosing when to take a long hike. 
  • Presence of other pilgrims can make your Via Francigena better (or worse). 
  • Unique and special events can really enhance your pilgrimage. 

Best Weather for the Via Francigena

The expected weather is a strong consideration. The final 250 miles of the Via Francigena are in Tuscany and Lazio regions of Italy and can get hot in the summer.  Afternoon temperatures are often in the 90s (30s in C). 

Keeping temperature in mind is especially important with several segments that are long distance between services and shade.  

Clock in Caprancia.
Springtime in Tuscany.

Spring time is a great time to take the Via Francigena. The mornings can be chilly, but the afternoons are mild.  A special bonus, flowers are coming into bloom.  A springtime culinary bonus, cinghiale (wild boar) is on the menu after the winter hunting season.

Like spring, fall also has mild weather and is a great time to walk.  Winter can be cold and wet. 

One special consideration, if you are walking through the Switzerland portion, the Saint Bernard pass is open generally June through September. 

Popularity of the Via Francigena by Season

The popularity of the Via Francigena can affect your experience in a couple of ways. 

One way is the availability of services. Many places are only open during tourist season, generally Easter through November.  

If you are seeking a solitary experience, then the off season may be your choice. We walked the VF in March, and on average we met one other pilgrim each day.  

Lone hiker on the Via Francigena.

Otherwise, interacting with other pilgrims can be very rewarding.

According to the estimates from the European Association of the Via Francigena, 85% of pilgrims take the Via Francigena in May through September. Even though the weather is hottest in summer, about half of the pilgrims do the Via Francigena in the hottest months, June, July and August. 

If you want to engage with other pilgrims, then May through September is the time to go.

Special Events on the Via Francigena

Feast of Saint Joesph in Siena.
Palio di Siena is held twice a year. Photo by Janus Kinase (https://www.flickr.com/photos/janus_kinase/6049567141)

Taking a pilgrimage, especially with a long walk like the Via Francigena is already a moving experience, but can be enhanced with special events happening during the pilgrimage.

We decided to time our Via Francigena to arrive in Rome on Good Friday, so we could celebrate Easter at the Vatican (!).  

Arriving to Rome for Easter also had us walking through Tuscany in spring. In addition, we were in Siena for their celebration of San Giuseppe (St. Joseph). 

Here are a few examples of events happening throughout the year in the Tuscany & Lazio regions of the Via Francigena. 

January

  • San Gimignano
  • 31st: Feast of San Gimignano

February

  • Various
  • (varies): Carnevale throughout Italy

March

  • San Gimignano
  • Siena
  • Viterbo
  • Acquapendente
  • 12th: Feast of Saint Fina
  • 19th: Feast of San Giuseppe 
  • 19th: La Macchina di San Giuseppe
  • 30th: Feast of the Holy Sepulchre

April

  • San Quirico d’Orcia
  • Siena
  • Radicofani
  • 22nd: Orcia Wine Festival
  • 29th: Feast of Saint Catherine of Siena
  • Good Friday: Processione del Cristo Morto

May

  • Lucca
  • Siena
  • Gambassi Terme
  • Capranica
  • San Miniato
  • 1st Sunday:  Holy Face of Lucca
  • 1st Sunday: Madonna di Provenzano
  • 1st Sunday: Feast Madonna del Piano
  • 1st Sunday: Feast Our Lady of the Rose
  • 25th: Feast of San Miniato

June

  • Rome
  • San Quirico 
  • Bolsena
  • Siena
  • San Gimignano
  • Radicofani
  • Sutri
  • Rome
  • 2nd: Republic Day
  • 4th: Festa di San Quirico
  • 11th*:Corpus Christi (date varies)
  • 24th: Festival of San Giovanni Battista
  • 3rd wknd: Medieval Harvest Festival
  • 29th: Feast of Saint Peter
  • 29th: Feast of Saint Peter
  • 29th: Feast of Saint Peter and Paul

July

  • Siena
  • Lucca
  • Montefiascone
  • Bolsena
  • Altopascio
  • 2nd: Palio delle Contrade (horse race)
  • late June-late July Summer Festival
  • 20th: Feast of Saint Margaret
  • 24th: Feast of Saint Christina
  • 25th: Feast of Saint James

August

  • Montefiascone
  • Bolsena
  • Lucca
  • Ponte d’Aribia
  • Siena
  • Gambassi Terme
  • Montefiascone
  • Early Aug: Wine Festival
  • 5th: Procession of the Holy Cap
  • Puccini Festival
  • 10th: Feast of Saint Lawrence
  • 16th: Palio delle Contrade (horse race)
  • 16th: Festival of San Rocco
  • 28th: Saint Augustine’s Fair

September

  • Viterbo
  • Vetralla
  • Lucca
  • Lucca
  • Sutri
  • Vetralla
  • Capranica
  • 2nd: Santa Rosa Festival 
  • (early): Feast of Our Lady of Grace
  • 1st Sunday: Madonna della Guardia
  • 13th: Volto Santo
  • 2nd Sunday: Our Lady of Childbirth
  • (varies): Sagra della Porchetta
  • 29th: Feast of Saint Michael the Archangel

October

  • Vetralla
  • Rome
  • 4th: Feast of Saint Francis of Assisi
  • Rome International Film Festival

November

  • San Miniato
  • Montefiascone
  • White Truffle Fair
  • 25th: Feast of Our Lady of Health

December

  • Various
  • Rome
  • Christmas Markets throughout Italy
  • Christmas and Nativity Celebrations

Conclusion

We really want you get the most out of your Via Francigena, and we hope a few of these tips might help make it more enjoyable.